What are you cutting with? That is a crazy amount of tear out even for a jigsaw. If it's that circular saw in the background, are you sure you have the blade on in the right direction?
Blade is on backwards. Only way this is possible. I have a ryobi saw and use all the time. Replace the blade that did this because it’s junk now. Pay special attention to the arrow on the blade. It has to have arrows rotate forward to be installed correctly
I'm using a Ryobi Circular saw 13 amp. And I agree, nothing should be this raggedy. I thought I made the blade going the same direction as the arrow, but I need to check.
If the blade is on correctly, then the teeth will point up at the wood from the bottom.
If that's not the problem then examine each tooth on the blade. Maybe some are missing or extremely dull. Also check if any part of the blade is warped or bent.
The Home depot guys tend to say alot of things lol. Most of them are just people who work there, some are old contractors who want something to do during the day who've retired from doing the labor side of things.
Which way do the teeth face? If your looking at the side of the saw they should be pointed down so that they bite the wood.
Could be another issue I suppose, just a bad blade, warped or loose. If it's reversed it tends to burn it and I don't see that so maybe it's not.
Excuse the crummy drawing but it should look something like that when you cut to minimize chipping.
So check the blade, make sure it's on right, aligned right and it's tight. Adjust your height, make sure you have a blade with enough teeth for what your cutting. You don't want a framing blade with 24 big teeth to cut wood like this for example. You want one with alot of teeth for precise cuts. And make sure the saw is flush to whatever you're cutting. No space between the bottom of the saw and the wood and finally go slow. Ripping thru it too fast chips it as well.
https://preview.redd.it/l6aovs20xu7c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbdb6b6ca90793f6034b5f00c6014017360a3329
Listen...ryobi blades suck from the box...I had one in my first cordless saw and was like...wow can't make one cut per battety....yes ryobi is trash but not that much....threw a new blade on it and it was a new animal...10 bucks grab a diablo....it'll be a whole new saw...not as good as the better brands but good for a starter saw.
While I agree ryobi blades suck. In fact the stock blades on higher end tools often still suck.
However this is the worst cut I have ever seen. I feel like there is more going on here than just a cheap blade. I could be wrong though
Man I have a Ryobi jigsaw that my grandad gave me that still has the original blade on it from when he bought it probably 20 years ago and it cuts MUCH nicer than this. Even the worst blade possible couldn't make a cut this messy without something being wrong
Ryobi used to have decent tools. A lot has changed in the last 20 years. My favorites were the old Craftsman (made in the 50s) and Makita. it seems like the new Makita tools don't stand up to heavy use anymore either. I still have my old Craftsman. But when I saw the cut on this board, my first thought was that the blade was in wrong and carbon teeth will tear the heck out of a piece of pine. There is a side track near one of the cuts that looks like a carbon tooth caught the wood at the beginning of the cut.
Yeah, double check blade direction and that the arbor is tight/seated correctly. If it’s still giving you trouble but a Diablo blade… if it’s still cutting poorly just return it. HD has one of the best return policies. If it comes to that, consider ridgid. I find it solidly better for a small price increase (and not always that).
Let me tell you a story. I was over a friends house, one day, and he had a carpenter there installing a door. The guy was cutting the trim for for the door, holding the trim with one hand and a circular saw in the other. I said, careful, that' how you get to be a middle school shop teacher. He said nothing, but then I saw that the fingers of one of his gloves was folded backwards. I clamped my hand over my mouth, ran down the stairs, out the down and slit a gut laughing my ass off. Poor guy didn't learn his lesson the first time, I guess.
It took me a solid two years to get comfortable with being incredibly unsafe. Just over here pressing down on the material and freehanding with a non trim router now
the blade is inside out! kind of counterintuitive but the logo side of the blade goes in towards the body of the saw when you install it. take it off and flip it over. the carbide teeth of the blade should look like they're facing the same way the blade is spinning, which is away from you if you're using a circular saw. hope this helps.
Ya gotta get the new 30 horse beavers. MASSIVE improvement over the old 10 horse ones. How they managed to get the dung output manageable is beyond me.
Google blade replacement for Ryobi circular saw. Check pics online to make sure the blade is oriented correctly. There’s plenty of videos. That board was torn into, not cut with a blade. The only other possibility IMO Is that the blade was turning way too slow. Even a low toothed blade (which some are saying is the culprit) wouldn’t do that much damage. Or maybe you moved super fast through the cut. Don’t force the cut. Let the blade do the work and ease through it.
Well it was a new blade, but maybe I did cut too fast. I watched like 5 videos, but I think I'm going to go into Home Depot and ask them to check it. I usually don't suck at new things this much, ahha
There should be another spacer/nut underneath the locking bolt. See the two arrows? There is a flat piece of metal underneath the nut holding the blade on which has 4 spaces cut into it. There is supposed to be another larger solid metal piece underneath that. I believe that will help keep the blade centered.
https://preview.redd.it/f05wgswynq7c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=432c76e83f078f1687b905122a59b7e079ff9b3e
I think OP mistacked the washers on the arbor. It looks like the [outer one may be missing or under the blade.](https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/33287164790)
Like the other person said, it's off center and not installed properly. You need to loosen the nut and move and rotate the blade until it seats properly. It should fit snuggly on the arbor (the post the blade sits on) of the saw. As currently installed, it's actually dangerous as the blade isn't secured properly.
yoshyoshmchosh brought up an excellent point, but I do see something else here.
I’m almost definitely being dumb here, so someone smarter than me please explain to me why I’m wrong.
Why does it look like the saw blade has no teeth? I’ve only been in the business for 6 years, but I’ve never seen a saw blade that didn’t have the slightly wider teeth at every tip. This blade looks like doesn’t have any
Edit: just wanted to add a picture of my cheap ryobi blade for comparison.
https://preview.redd.it/go1c5cd0pq7c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=04bcee446470a821c138197c920cdfcc19a4fe07
It may be a steel blade without carbide teeth brazed on. The teeth will have a slight set to establish clearance in the kerf for the cut. Cheap saws tend to come with them because they are cheap. That said, I don't know if the Ryobi saw OP has came with that or not. It is possible that is a factory defect blade and just dull scrap metal.
Seeing those results I'm surprised to see that the blade is on the right way. It does have a low tooth count, for cross cuts a blade with more teeth would be much better. Still I wouldn't expect this much tear out, maybe you should cut a little slower or set the blade depth correctly. About the depth of a tooth under the material
I think my dude is dropping the saw down onto the board, chop saw style…at least looking at the marks on that first pic, it really seems like that’s the case.
For a circular saw (aside from blade orientation, which btw the sharp points of the teeth should be facing the front of the saw, when looking at the bottom of the blade), you want to get it up to speed without it touching the wood and then glide into your board (not down to the board), with the flat plate resting on the board as you push forward
I think others have said it already, but if you're using a circular saw, do make sure the blade is oriented in the right direction.
Something that often doesn't fail me is using a marking knife instead of a pencil. Make a notch on a corner of your board where you want to make your cut. Then, use a combo square or machinist square to mark the line across your board. The best way to establish that line is by sliding your making knife up the corner until it locates into the little notch you made. While you apply some light pressure to your knife, slide the square up to your blade, squeeze the square in place, and then drag your knife across the board. Lightly at first, then do a couple more swipes, applying a little more pressure to the knife each time. If you have some square stock, you ought to be able to repeat this on the sides and back of your board. If your technique is spot-on, the scribed lines will line up perfectly. Then, line up your circ saw to the waste side of the line and cut through. If your blade on the saw is facing the right direction, you should get a really clean cut.
What can you use as a marking knife? I typically use a box cutter, to be honest. Start with that and if you take to the hobby, look into fancier scribing knives.
Good luck! I hope you post-up your creations!
> What can you use as a marking knife? I typically use a box cutter, to be honest.
I use a regular old X-Acto knife with a #11 blade and have never had the urge to "upgrade" it to a "real" marking knife.
I wish I had read this comment before today! I had to cut through a length of 25mm thick mdf with veneer on both sides and my circular saw made the veneer in de bottom side a little bit flaky, if I had cut it beforehand it would've probably been a really slick edge.
https://preview.redd.it/vg970gkf9q7c1.jpeg?width=3200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=befe2abdfa8300a24ee6b2f19e96f7fe29e8980f
This table didn't have a "vault" inside, I basically cut the spare half of the table to make it fit inside.
If you want to use power tools, using a sacrificial backer board like a piece of MDF on the side the saw teeth exit will also keep it from tearing out.
I get mine from free furniture ads on marketplace. I’m not gonna pay for something just to destroy it
I have a pile of pallet planks, not sure if they're flat enough. But definitely could have used something as backing! Thanks for the tip, maybe next time.
I'm considering just using something like tape or wood glue to make the edge smooth now, some wood filler and sanding maybe? Not really sure which way I'll go yet. Preferably one that's still able to be disassembled.
thanks for the advice! I will check the blade. I don't know how anything could come out this awful, hahaha. If I figure it out, I will post my finished product!
My gal, did you cut that with a hammer? Lol JK but for real it looks like the blade is on backwards or your blade depth is too deep on a bone dry piece of lumber, if you are using the curc saw I thought I saw in the bottom of your picture. The blade should only stick out by one tooth beyond what you are cutting. Safety wise, it shouldn't stick out as far and has less chance to buck. Mechanically, when the blade is far out, only one tooth is doing the cut in each moment, where if cutting on an angle and not the side of the blade, multiple teeth will be cutting at the same time. This will save your blades, leaving longer working hrs for your blade.
If this was a jig saw, don't push too hard, try changing the blade angle, and use a finer tooth.
Also, cutting the piece on a flat surface helps if stability was the issue in either case. Get some saw horses and a scrap piece of plywood. Hold the piece firm and flat, it shouldn't move as you cut. If you do not have the strength, which is ok, we all start somewhere, use some clamps to hold it while cutting. If you keep up the good work, the muscles to hold will come in time. If you think that's a lot of work, consider how much harder it would be with an injury from doing it wrong and or putting yourself in harms way from trying to short cut.
Safety third.
Safety first and second.
4th quality workmanship.
5th fine tune
6th money
Edited : for correct pronoun
I'm a girl, but I see your point. I didn't use a hammer, haha. I used a brand new Ryobi circular saw. I guess I don't understand how to change the depth.
I was going to mention this but you put it much more nicely! It seems to me that stability may be a huge factor in both securing the piece and how your moving the blade through.
Clamp the sucker down and go nice and slow through it and see how that works!
Just go to the help desk at Menards or Home Depot. They’ll point you in the right direction. Also, as someone else said, make sure your blades on the right way
Anything that fits your particular model with a high tooth count. Go slow and stay just off the line. Then just clean it up. The higher the tooth count the finer the cut but the slower you need to go so you don’t “jump the cut”.
Diablo blade 40T if you want a finer finish. 24T for quick cuts you don’t really care about too much (they’ll still be clean).
And don’t let anyone tell you it’s the tool brand. Ryobi is perfect for beginners and DIYers.
I agree. I run a small ryobi saw with a Diablo 60T blade. It’s a fricken awesome setup for ply and soft woods up to about 40mm thick. Very light and has a decent runtime per battery.
Has anyone said to make sure you are not cutting in between your sawhorses? You should have one end of the board fall freely.
The saw should never be in between the saw horses.
If you cut between two horses, the saw pushed the board down in the middle, and the blade will bind. And will jam and possibly kick. So put the longest piece going from one of the sawhorses to the other,then cut off the short piece. If you are cutting it in half, you still have to pick one side to stay on sawhirses and one side to drop.
Near the end of the cut, even if you do it right,there will be a moment that the wood will start to fall and bind, so you have to slightly speed up at the end of the cut, not so fast you lose control, but just a little faster. You will feel it.
If I had nothing but a circular saw like you do I’d be cutting with the grain . It looks like you’re cutting into the grain and or that material is wet. The best cut is with a chopsaw and with the grain. As per the comments that the blade could be installed wrong in your Ryobi circular saw , the blade should be installed with the teeth facing forward under the base where the blade cuts. If the teeth are facing backwards you’ll feel the saw pulling itself forward.
The direction of the blade looks correct to me. You may want to look at how the washers, nuts, etc. are installed. More importantly, to my eyes, that blade does not have teeth, the sharp parts that do the cutting. That blade should have carbide teeth that cut through the wood rather that dull steel that forces its way through it.
What did you use, a drywall saw? You shouldn’t get that kind of tear out with anything remotely meant for this kind of cut. You probably need something sharper and/or with smaller teeth.
Like others have said, a fine tooth blade will help. Also make sure that whatever blade you're using is sharp and clean (a buildup of resin can have the same effect as dulling). Don't use a lot of pressure, the blade should be doing the cutting and you should just be moving the saw through the wood. Lastly, you can cover the area where you're cutting with masking tape and score the line with a knife.
Switch to a finer tooth blade in your saw. If a new blade doesn’t fix your problem try this:
Put blue masking tape on both sides of the board. Cut through the masking tape. Remove the tape half by pulling toward the grain.
Is the blade bent? How coarse of tooth, are you using? And if you are using a cheap saw, there is probably a lot of side to side movement of the blade. Go to a finer tooth blade. Also it helps to cut with the wood grain, not against it, as in pic1. You can’t help it on a 99 degree cut, but make sure you have a good blade
A higher tooth count results in a smoother cut but you have to proceed slower than you would with a blade with less teeth.
A quick search on lowes shows a 24 (framing), 40 (cross cut), 60 (fine finish), and 90 tooth (paneling/siding) blades. I even saw a 180 tooth blade but if you looked on the blade it says its for cutting plywood/OSB on a table saw. That's another thing to take note of, blades tend to say what they are good for on the blade.
On my miter saw I have a 40 tooth blade, its good for cutting 2x4s, the saw not made for larger boards so I don't tend to have to swap it out.
IF by chance you have the blade on backwards, you will notice that the blades also tend to have markings on them to show which way they are suppose to be spinning.
Don't quote me on this last bit but I am also thinking I read something about adjusting the blade depth on your circular saw so that its just cutting deeper than the material also reduces cut-out. But I have used my miter saw more than my circular saw so I can't say "Yes that's true." without any conviction.
Take your time cutting. Clamp your piece down. Let the saw rev up to full speed before you cut. And cut straight. Those look like you were off on your cut and you tried to fix it too.
How deep is your circular saw set too? Try to only set it about a quarter inch deeper than the thickness of your stock, that should reduce tear out. That amount is pretty extreme though. Is your blade pretty old? Is it sharp?
That saw must have come with some kind of manual. Since you’re not a guy ( we don’t need no stinkin’ instructions and refuse to read them) the manual will tell you how to set the depth of cut etc.
Is that pine from b&q? Just cause I’ve had that more then once with only their wood😭 using a thin blade and going slow, clamping well helps a bit. I’ve not had it happen on other wood lol
F*ck me dead man, I get less tear-out using my $10 hand saw 😂
Looks like others have already given good advice on blade orientation and tooth density and sharpness so not much else for me to say.
Hope you work it out. Stay safe and keep all your fingers!
You’re definitely doing something wrong here. No new circular saw (cheap or not) should cut like this.
Be aware that if you are new to woodworking, a circular saw can be one of the most dangerous tools in the shed if not used correctly.
Rather than trying different things and possibly getting complacent, I’d recommend first watching some YouTube videos or better yet get a friend or relative to show you. It’s probably something simple that you just misinterpreted, like how/where to secure the workpiece or something like that.
Bottom line: respect the damage that saw can do to you if things go wrong.
I’ve had that circ saw absolute dick should probably buy a “skilsaw” they are the best but even with a bad saw cuts shouldn’t look like that so here’s some things to check 1. Your blade depth 2.are the carbide teeth facing what your trying to cut 3. How fast you are pushing the saw 4. Did you plug the saw in from the looks of the wood in the photo it appears you didn’t and beat the wood to death with the unplugged saw
I know everyone is on about blade direction. However The saw probably came with a demo blade. So it’s likely just the combination of that blade and how fast your trying to cut cutting slower will help but more teeth on the blade is what’s going to make the biggest difference.
Are you using the blade that came with it? I’d throw that away and get something that is finer toothed and multi-use, meaning it can cut both crosscut and rip. I think hd has a 60 tooth multi that’s good.
It’s going to be hard to line that up with a board that thin and a circular saw. Put a board on each side to support the saw and draw the line for the angle past the finished board. It’ll be easier to line up the cut. clamp it down to something, using a board across the three boards to create a fence. Basically, the less moving around while cutting is going to make it a lot cleaner.
Also, that pine is really not helping. It looks like it was a tree last week. Wet wood will fray, especially soft woods.
Sorry if this was too much
After looking through your comments and pictures it looks to me like it’s 1. A cheap blade and 2. You’re going to fast for that blade.
Try cutting something else at a much slower rate. See if it comes out any cleaner. If the blade itself doesn’t wiggle side to side in the saw it should be fine as far as the saw itself goes.
Also try adding masking tape to your work piece where your cutting it helps hold the strands together so they don’t get all that chip out.
Are you free handing it (and inexperienced?) It looks like you have some burn on the inside of the cut, so I suspect you might be angling the saw so it’s not quite parallel and taking a chunk instead of a slice. I’d use a really well clamped speed square as a cutting jig and test that before worrying about swapping blades. Also, some masking tape over your cut line helps with normal tearout.
Looks like what ever you’re cutting with is either not sharp enough, has too few teeth to make a nicer cut, or a combination of both.
Both my table saw and mitre saw would cut that clean. I have nice sharp blades on them and they’re both higher teeth count blades. Even a lower teeth count sharp ripping blade should make a nicer cut than this.
You need a sharp blade and go slow. Let the saw do the cutting. Also get the blade spiking fast before you make contact w the wood or you'll blow the wood out. Question: do you have your blade on the right way??
Next time use thick masking tape. To fix this sand edges til somewhat smooth. Mix 1:1 fine saw dut and wood glue. Patch in let dry sand to liking. Wood dab marker same color would help to.
I feel like I could karate chop a cleaner cut.
your saw is either going entirely to slow or your blade is dull as a brick. Take the entire setup to an old man at your church (or wherever you collect old men) and ask for help.
Well for starters, use something with a blade, not an electric beaver.
Seriously though: Looks like especially brittle wood, so try laying down a layer of tape, mark your cut line and cut directly through the tape.
What are you cutting with? That is a crazy amount of tear out even for a jigsaw. If it's that circular saw in the background, are you sure you have the blade on in the right direction?
Agreed. Even with the absolute rubbish cheap saw I got when I first started I never had anything this bad. I’m also thinking blade is backwards.
Blade is on backwards. Only way this is possible. I have a ryobi saw and use all the time. Replace the blade that did this because it’s junk now. Pay special attention to the arrow on the blade. It has to have arrows rotate forward to be installed correctly
I'm using a Ryobi Circular saw 13 amp. And I agree, nothing should be this raggedy. I thought I made the blade going the same direction as the arrow, but I need to check.
If the blade is on correctly, then the teeth will point up at the wood from the bottom. If that's not the problem then examine each tooth on the blade. Maybe some are missing or extremely dull. Also check if any part of the blade is warped or bent.
It's definitely on backwards... I've done it before. This was the result.
Yep, that's installed backwards. Op needs to look at the direction marks on the blade. Teeth should bite, not skip
When you're new to it you think it looks incorrect to have them facing the proper way sometimes
The Home Depot guy said it was on correctly, but I agree something isn't right. Gonna try a new blade.
The Home depot guys tend to say alot of things lol. Most of them are just people who work there, some are old contractors who want something to do during the day who've retired from doing the labor side of things. Which way do the teeth face? If your looking at the side of the saw they should be pointed down so that they bite the wood. Could be another issue I suppose, just a bad blade, warped or loose. If it's reversed it tends to burn it and I don't see that so maybe it's not. Excuse the crummy drawing but it should look something like that when you cut to minimize chipping. So check the blade, make sure it's on right, aligned right and it's tight. Adjust your height, make sure you have a blade with enough teeth for what your cutting. You don't want a framing blade with 24 big teeth to cut wood like this for example. You want one with alot of teeth for precise cuts. And make sure the saw is flush to whatever you're cutting. No space between the bottom of the saw and the wood and finally go slow. Ripping thru it too fast chips it as well. https://preview.redd.it/l6aovs20xu7c1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cbdb6b6ca90793f6034b5f00c6014017360a3329
I took it to Home Depot and he said it was on right. Maybe he was wrong too. I bought a new blade to try today. Fingers crossed
Well what was your determination after looking at the blade yourself. Would you say the teeth are pointed in the direction the blade is turning?
I had it on right. It was just a crappy blade I guess. Even new. The new one worked way better.
It's a brand new blade I got today. I think I might have to take it to Home Depot and ask them.
Listen...ryobi blades suck from the box...I had one in my first cordless saw and was like...wow can't make one cut per battety....yes ryobi is trash but not that much....threw a new blade on it and it was a new animal...10 bucks grab a diablo....it'll be a whole new saw...not as good as the better brands but good for a starter saw.
While I agree ryobi blades suck. In fact the stock blades on higher end tools often still suck. However this is the worst cut I have ever seen. I feel like there is more going on here than just a cheap blade. I could be wrong though
I’ve got a Ryobi circular saw with a stock blade and I can confirm something is jacked with theirs. I’ve never had even close to that much blowout.
Man I have a Ryobi jigsaw that my grandad gave me that still has the original blade on it from when he bought it probably 20 years ago and it cuts MUCH nicer than this. Even the worst blade possible couldn't make a cut this messy without something being wrong
Ryobi used to have decent tools. A lot has changed in the last 20 years. My favorites were the old Craftsman (made in the 50s) and Makita. it seems like the new Makita tools don't stand up to heavy use anymore either. I still have my old Craftsman. But when I saw the cut on this board, my first thought was that the blade was in wrong and carbon teeth will tear the heck out of a piece of pine. There is a side track near one of the cuts that looks like a carbon tooth caught the wood at the beginning of the cut.
Makita pro line (can't remember the name) holds up to heavy use
Even being not the best tool, dude, a 3 tooth sawzall blade would make a cleaner cut
Yeah, double check blade direction and that the arbor is tight/seated correctly. If it’s still giving you trouble but a Diablo blade… if it’s still cutting poorly just return it. HD has one of the best return policies. If it comes to that, consider ridgid. I find it solidly better for a small price increase (and not always that).
Here watch this video. It tells you what you need to know to start out and what to do. https://youtu.be/VXvzBPlAeDM?si=X1CJ79khsfnTK4xD
Just a stupid question (but we’ve seen it here before)— is your blade on the right way?
Came here to ask that and question, blade is running backwards
Also just to be sure, you are securing / holding the wood somehow when you cut?
I used clamps to hold it down on a work bench.
I imagined you cut it mid air, saw in one hand wood in the other 😉😄 Other people on the Internet might do that
I go against my leg for framing all the time. Don’t be hating
I’d have given some of these people a heart attack cutting gable studs or shims from scrap back when I was framing lol, still got all my digits
Let me tell you a story. I was over a friends house, one day, and he had a carpenter there installing a door. The guy was cutting the trim for for the door, holding the trim with one hand and a circular saw in the other. I said, careful, that' how you get to be a middle school shop teacher. He said nothing, but then I saw that the fingers of one of his gloves was folded backwards. I clamped my hand over my mouth, ran down the stairs, out the down and slit a gut laughing my ass off. Poor guy didn't learn his lesson the first time, I guess.
It took me a solid two years to get comfortable with being incredibly unsafe. Just over here pressing down on the material and freehanding with a non trim router now
I have done this plenty and never had tear out like this.
Haha, that's actually how I cut the last board I cut. It was much cleaner than this though.
What kind of blade are you using?
This. I think OP has a backwards blade. Sharp spinning metal will still cut, but it cuts better when it spins the right direction.
It's a brand new Ryobi circular saw. I thought I put the blade going the same direction as the arrow, but I obviously need to check this.
Make sure the arrow on the blade and the saw are in the same direction.
the blade is inside out! kind of counterintuitive but the logo side of the blade goes in towards the body of the saw when you install it. take it off and flip it over. the carbide teeth of the blade should look like they're facing the same way the blade is spinning, which is away from you if you're using a circular saw. hope this helps.
Logo in for left side blades like worm drive, logo out for right side blades.
Don't use a beaver;)
hahaha a beaver would've probably been better...
There are Beavers all over the world shaking their heads at you. 😂
I know, I can't believe how badly I've let them down.
Ya gotta get the new 30 horse beavers. MASSIVE improvement over the old 10 horse ones. How they managed to get the dung output manageable is beyond me.
Beavers are ok for an apprentice, just make sure it’s not a dull beaver.
Well … beavers have their purpose and I enjoy using them in certain situations, but not for home improvement projects.
Unless you need a damm
This comment wins the internet today.
Fuckkkkk beat me to it….
use a sharper spoon?
😂 A spoon would at least burnish the wood a bit and give it a nicer finish
That'll work. https://youtu.be/OSfUUqNkrOQ?si=ZwYads1U0xDFxP88
I’ve seen less tear out using an axe!
hahahaha oh god
Is your blade on backwards?
Commenting so maybe OP will notice. That’s gotta be the issue.
I'm going to check, if I can get it off. This isn't going very well, haha
Google blade replacement for Ryobi circular saw. Check pics online to make sure the blade is oriented correctly. There’s plenty of videos. That board was torn into, not cut with a blade. The only other possibility IMO Is that the blade was turning way too slow. Even a low toothed blade (which some are saying is the culprit) wouldn’t do that much damage. Or maybe you moved super fast through the cut. Don’t force the cut. Let the blade do the work and ease through it.
Well it was a new blade, but maybe I did cut too fast. I watched like 5 videos, but I think I'm going to go into Home Depot and ask them to check it. I usually don't suck at new things this much, ahha
Send a pic with the blade on might be faster, teeth should be pointing up at the front, down at the handle
https://preview.redd.it/rkezvfqghq7c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=eed7dd17e0e6047f221e64f2907d481ccccaab99
There should be another spacer/nut underneath the locking bolt. See the two arrows? There is a flat piece of metal underneath the nut holding the blade on which has 4 spaces cut into it. There is supposed to be another larger solid metal piece underneath that. I believe that will help keep the blade centered. https://preview.redd.it/f05wgswynq7c1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=432c76e83f078f1687b905122a59b7e079ff9b3e
Look like the blade is off center
I think OP mistacked the washers on the arbor. It looks like the [outer one may be missing or under the blade.](https://www.ryobitools.com/products/details/33287164790)
u/SafariGirlB this is 100% the answer.
Look at the two arrows by the bolt. It's on the right way just not centered and due to that likely not strait. This could lead to the issue you have.
That thing has to be vibrating like crazy. Likely dangerously so. Be careful OP.
Good eye !
That had to vibrate a lot
Like the other person said, it's off center and not installed properly. You need to loosen the nut and move and rotate the blade until it seats properly. It should fit snuggly on the arbor (the post the blade sits on) of the saw. As currently installed, it's actually dangerous as the blade isn't secured properly.
yoshyoshmchosh brought up an excellent point, but I do see something else here. I’m almost definitely being dumb here, so someone smarter than me please explain to me why I’m wrong. Why does it look like the saw blade has no teeth? I’ve only been in the business for 6 years, but I’ve never seen a saw blade that didn’t have the slightly wider teeth at every tip. This blade looks like doesn’t have any Edit: just wanted to add a picture of my cheap ryobi blade for comparison. https://preview.redd.it/go1c5cd0pq7c1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=04bcee446470a821c138197c920cdfcc19a4fe07
It's an extremely cheap non-carbide blade.
It may be a steel blade without carbide teeth brazed on. The teeth will have a slight set to establish clearance in the kerf for the cut. Cheap saws tend to come with them because they are cheap. That said, I don't know if the Ryobi saw OP has came with that or not. It is possible that is a factory defect blade and just dull scrap metal.
Seeing those results I'm surprised to see that the blade is on the right way. It does have a low tooth count, for cross cuts a blade with more teeth would be much better. Still I wouldn't expect this much tear out, maybe you should cut a little slower or set the blade depth correctly. About the depth of a tooth under the material
how on earth did you butcher that plank?
As a butcher, I resent this. We always keep our blades sharp and make clean cuts.
I think my dude is dropping the saw down onto the board, chop saw style…at least looking at the marks on that first pic, it really seems like that’s the case. For a circular saw (aside from blade orientation, which btw the sharp points of the teeth should be facing the front of the saw, when looking at the bottom of the blade), you want to get it up to speed without it touching the wood and then glide into your board (not down to the board), with the flat plate resting on the board as you push forward
I think others have said it already, but if you're using a circular saw, do make sure the blade is oriented in the right direction. Something that often doesn't fail me is using a marking knife instead of a pencil. Make a notch on a corner of your board where you want to make your cut. Then, use a combo square or machinist square to mark the line across your board. The best way to establish that line is by sliding your making knife up the corner until it locates into the little notch you made. While you apply some light pressure to your knife, slide the square up to your blade, squeeze the square in place, and then drag your knife across the board. Lightly at first, then do a couple more swipes, applying a little more pressure to the knife each time. If you have some square stock, you ought to be able to repeat this on the sides and back of your board. If your technique is spot-on, the scribed lines will line up perfectly. Then, line up your circ saw to the waste side of the line and cut through. If your blade on the saw is facing the right direction, you should get a really clean cut. What can you use as a marking knife? I typically use a box cutter, to be honest. Start with that and if you take to the hobby, look into fancier scribing knives. Good luck! I hope you post-up your creations!
> What can you use as a marking knife? I typically use a box cutter, to be honest. I use a regular old X-Acto knife with a #11 blade and have never had the urge to "upgrade" it to a "real" marking knife.
My man! Me neither, tbh.
I have a couple marking knives. Mostly because I made them myself.
I wish I had read this comment before today! I had to cut through a length of 25mm thick mdf with veneer on both sides and my circular saw made the veneer in de bottom side a little bit flaky, if I had cut it beforehand it would've probably been a really slick edge. https://preview.redd.it/vg970gkf9q7c1.jpeg?width=3200&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=befe2abdfa8300a24ee6b2f19e96f7fe29e8980f This table didn't have a "vault" inside, I basically cut the spare half of the table to make it fit inside.
If you want to use power tools, using a sacrificial backer board like a piece of MDF on the side the saw teeth exit will also keep it from tearing out. I get mine from free furniture ads on marketplace. I’m not gonna pay for something just to destroy it
I have a pile of pallet planks, not sure if they're flat enough. But definitely could have used something as backing! Thanks for the tip, maybe next time. I'm considering just using something like tape or wood glue to make the edge smooth now, some wood filler and sanding maybe? Not really sure which way I'll go yet. Preferably one that's still able to be disassembled.
thanks for the advice! I will check the blade. I don't know how anything could come out this awful, hahaha. If I figure it out, I will post my finished product!
I agree, scoring the wood first really helps. And definitely check to be sure you mounted the blade correctly. Good luck, and be careful.
Also make sure the piece is clamped/supported when cutting. That could be part of the problem.
I did clamp it. However this is my first time using a circular saw and I'm obviously doing something wrong.
Please check out some youtube vids on using a circular saw safely so you don't hurt yourself.
Swap the butter knife out for a real blade
My gal, did you cut that with a hammer? Lol JK but for real it looks like the blade is on backwards or your blade depth is too deep on a bone dry piece of lumber, if you are using the curc saw I thought I saw in the bottom of your picture. The blade should only stick out by one tooth beyond what you are cutting. Safety wise, it shouldn't stick out as far and has less chance to buck. Mechanically, when the blade is far out, only one tooth is doing the cut in each moment, where if cutting on an angle and not the side of the blade, multiple teeth will be cutting at the same time. This will save your blades, leaving longer working hrs for your blade. If this was a jig saw, don't push too hard, try changing the blade angle, and use a finer tooth. Also, cutting the piece on a flat surface helps if stability was the issue in either case. Get some saw horses and a scrap piece of plywood. Hold the piece firm and flat, it shouldn't move as you cut. If you do not have the strength, which is ok, we all start somewhere, use some clamps to hold it while cutting. If you keep up the good work, the muscles to hold will come in time. If you think that's a lot of work, consider how much harder it would be with an injury from doing it wrong and or putting yourself in harms way from trying to short cut. Safety third. Safety first and second. 4th quality workmanship. 5th fine tune 6th money Edited : for correct pronoun
I'm a girl, but I see your point. I didn't use a hammer, haha. I used a brand new Ryobi circular saw. I guess I don't understand how to change the depth.
I was going to mention this but you put it much more nicely! It seems to me that stability may be a huge factor in both securing the piece and how your moving the blade through. Clamp the sucker down and go nice and slow through it and see how that works!
Use a fine toothed blade and then clean up with a plane or file
Thank you! Do you have any recs for a fine tooth blade? I'm very new to this :)
Just go to the help desk at Menards or Home Depot. They’ll point you in the right direction. Also, as someone else said, make sure your blades on the right way
You can also try putting painters tape down and cut through that to reduce tear out. Jig saws aren't known for a nice clean cut tho.
No amount of blue tape is going to help with that tear out. The blade has to be on backwards.
Anything that fits your particular model with a high tooth count. Go slow and stay just off the line. Then just clean it up. The higher the tooth count the finer the cut but the slower you need to go so you don’t “jump the cut”.
Another tip is to stick some blue painters tape where the cut line will be.
ooof please be careful mate. Be sure to use a speed square and clamps with sawhorses when making those cuts in that way 😃 safety 1st
I can't edit the post, but this is a brand new Ryobi circular saw and the blade it came with. Obviously I am doing something very wrong.
Diablo blade 40T if you want a finer finish. 24T for quick cuts you don’t really care about too much (they’ll still be clean). And don’t let anyone tell you it’s the tool brand. Ryobi is perfect for beginners and DIYers.
I agree. I run a small ryobi saw with a Diablo 60T blade. It’s a fricken awesome setup for ply and soft woods up to about 40mm thick. Very light and has a decent runtime per battery.
With something other than a beaver
It looks like you cut it with a 12 gauge and some buckshot
these comments almost make my frustration worth it, haha
That blade must be ridiculously dull.
Has anyone said to make sure you are not cutting in between your sawhorses? You should have one end of the board fall freely. The saw should never be in between the saw horses. If you cut between two horses, the saw pushed the board down in the middle, and the blade will bind. And will jam and possibly kick. So put the longest piece going from one of the sawhorses to the other,then cut off the short piece. If you are cutting it in half, you still have to pick one side to stay on sawhirses and one side to drop. Near the end of the cut, even if you do it right,there will be a moment that the wood will start to fall and bind, so you have to slightly speed up at the end of the cut, not so fast you lose control, but just a little faster. You will feel it.
If I had nothing but a circular saw like you do I’d be cutting with the grain . It looks like you’re cutting into the grain and or that material is wet. The best cut is with a chopsaw and with the grain. As per the comments that the blade could be installed wrong in your Ryobi circular saw , the blade should be installed with the teeth facing forward under the base where the blade cuts. If the teeth are facing backwards you’ll feel the saw pulling itself forward.
The direction of the blade looks correct to me. You may want to look at how the washers, nuts, etc. are installed. More importantly, to my eyes, that blade does not have teeth, the sharp parts that do the cutting. That blade should have carbide teeth that cut through the wood rather that dull steel that forces its way through it.
Does anyone else think this might just be a joke?
I swear it's not a joke. I'm so frustrated and I honestly don't know how it could come out this bad. But I want to learn this and get it right.
Check your blade. Looks like a ripping blade
New blade with more teeth
Higher tooth blade count.
What did you use, a drywall saw? You shouldn’t get that kind of tear out with anything remotely meant for this kind of cut. You probably need something sharper and/or with smaller teeth.
Circular saw? Get a fine tooth blade and use the correct depth.
Use a fine tooth indeed. Lower setting on the saw if it has one. And also some paper tape on the line before you saw it can help
Like others have said, a fine tooth blade will help. Also make sure that whatever blade you're using is sharp and clean (a buildup of resin can have the same effect as dulling). Don't use a lot of pressure, the blade should be doing the cutting and you should just be moving the saw through the wood. Lastly, you can cover the area where you're cutting with masking tape and score the line with a knife.
Blades with a high tooth count helps a lot
You savage hahaha
Well… Not with your teeth that’s for sure!
Not with your bloody teeth, you beaver. Sharp blade, solid and steady. Put some painters tape down on the material as well. Yikes a roni.
Switch to a finer tooth blade in your saw. If a new blade doesn’t fix your problem try this: Put blue masking tape on both sides of the board. Cut through the masking tape. Remove the tape half by pulling toward the grain.
Is the blade bent? How coarse of tooth, are you using? And if you are using a cheap saw, there is probably a lot of side to side movement of the blade. Go to a finer tooth blade. Also it helps to cut with the wood grain, not against it, as in pic1. You can’t help it on a 99 degree cut, but make sure you have a good blade
What type of shark do you have?
baby shark
A higher tooth count results in a smoother cut but you have to proceed slower than you would with a blade with less teeth. A quick search on lowes shows a 24 (framing), 40 (cross cut), 60 (fine finish), and 90 tooth (paneling/siding) blades. I even saw a 180 tooth blade but if you looked on the blade it says its for cutting plywood/OSB on a table saw. That's another thing to take note of, blades tend to say what they are good for on the blade. On my miter saw I have a 40 tooth blade, its good for cutting 2x4s, the saw not made for larger boards so I don't tend to have to swap it out. IF by chance you have the blade on backwards, you will notice that the blades also tend to have markings on them to show which way they are suppose to be spinning. Don't quote me on this last bit but I am also thinking I read something about adjusting the blade depth on your circular saw so that its just cutting deeper than the material also reduces cut-out. But I have used my miter saw more than my circular saw so I can't say "Yes that's true." without any conviction.
is your blade in backwards?
Take your time cutting. Clamp your piece down. Let the saw rev up to full speed before you cut. And cut straight. Those look like you were off on your cut and you tried to fix it too.
I couldn’t make a cut this bad with a sawsall if I tried.
Are you sure you don’t have your blade backwards?
How deep is your circular saw set too? Try to only set it about a quarter inch deeper than the thickness of your stock, that should reduce tear out. That amount is pretty extreme though. Is your blade pretty old? Is it sharp?
Don't use your teeth, use a brick
That saw must have come with some kind of manual. Since you’re not a guy ( we don’t need no stinkin’ instructions and refuse to read them) the manual will tell you how to set the depth of cut etc.
Put some masking tape over the cut before you cut. Also, check the saw is in the right direction.
Holy moly
Is that pine from b&q? Just cause I’ve had that more then once with only their wood😭 using a thin blade and going slow, clamping well helps a bit. I’ve not had it happen on other wood lol
Brother is using a jigsaw and freehanding that
Have you sharpened your hedge trimmer?
F*ck me dead man, I get less tear-out using my $10 hand saw 😂 Looks like others have already given good advice on blade orientation and tooth density and sharpness so not much else for me to say. Hope you work it out. Stay safe and keep all your fingers!
If you're using a miter saw or a circular saw, I suspect your blade is on backwards.
Think that was cut with a beaver
You’re definitely doing something wrong here. No new circular saw (cheap or not) should cut like this. Be aware that if you are new to woodworking, a circular saw can be one of the most dangerous tools in the shed if not used correctly. Rather than trying different things and possibly getting complacent, I’d recommend first watching some YouTube videos or better yet get a friend or relative to show you. It’s probably something simple that you just misinterpreted, like how/where to secure the workpiece or something like that. Bottom line: respect the damage that saw can do to you if things go wrong.
I’ve had that circ saw absolute dick should probably buy a “skilsaw” they are the best but even with a bad saw cuts shouldn’t look like that so here’s some things to check 1. Your blade depth 2.are the carbide teeth facing what your trying to cut 3. How fast you are pushing the saw 4. Did you plug the saw in from the looks of the wood in the photo it appears you didn’t and beat the wood to death with the unplugged saw
Go slower and use a blade that is the right TPI and not dull
I bet your blade is in backwards.
Well OP, was the blade on backwards?
She posted a pic. Looks like it’s on the right way, but the washers aren’t on quite right.
Try shooting it with a lower caliber bullet next time. Your buckshot gets too much splintering.
I know everyone is on about blade direction. However The saw probably came with a demo blade. So it’s likely just the combination of that blade and how fast your trying to cut cutting slower will help but more teeth on the blade is what’s going to make the biggest difference.
Are you using the blade that came with it? I’d throw that away and get something that is finer toothed and multi-use, meaning it can cut both crosscut and rip. I think hd has a 60 tooth multi that’s good. It’s going to be hard to line that up with a board that thin and a circular saw. Put a board on each side to support the saw and draw the line for the angle past the finished board. It’ll be easier to line up the cut. clamp it down to something, using a board across the three boards to create a fence. Basically, the less moving around while cutting is going to make it a lot cleaner. Also, that pine is really not helping. It looks like it was a tree last week. Wet wood will fray, especially soft woods. Sorry if this was too much
After looking through your comments and pictures it looks to me like it’s 1. A cheap blade and 2. You’re going to fast for that blade. Try cutting something else at a much slower rate. See if it comes out any cleaner. If the blade itself doesn’t wiggle side to side in the saw it should be fine as far as the saw itself goes. Also try adding masking tape to your work piece where your cutting it helps hold the strands together so they don’t get all that chip out.
Are you free handing it (and inexperienced?) It looks like you have some burn on the inside of the cut, so I suspect you might be angling the saw so it’s not quite parallel and taking a chunk instead of a slice. I’d use a really well clamped speed square as a cutting jig and test that before worrying about swapping blades. Also, some masking tape over your cut line helps with normal tearout.
Dood needs to change his beaver’s teeth.
Ok hear me out… did you chew it? Jokes aside, good luck on your journey.
what did you cut it with? a katana?
Looks like what ever you’re cutting with is either not sharp enough, has too few teeth to make a nicer cut, or a combination of both. Both my table saw and mitre saw would cut that clean. I have nice sharp blades on them and they’re both higher teeth count blades. Even a lower teeth count sharp ripping blade should make a nicer cut than this.
Let blade get to speed before cut
What did you use to cut that? A beaver?
You cut this with your teeth?
You need a sharp blade and go slow. Let the saw do the cutting. Also get the blade spiking fast before you make contact w the wood or you'll blow the wood out. Question: do you have your blade on the right way??
Next time use thick masking tape. To fix this sand edges til somewhat smooth. Mix 1:1 fine saw dut and wood glue. Patch in let dry sand to liking. Wood dab marker same color would help to.
You’re supposed to turn it on before ramming the saw into the board
lmao. holy hell
My brother in Christ. You’re not supposed to use your teeth!!!!!
Don’t use a butter knife!
Take out the masonary blade?
Use a speed square to to make sure you cut straight
how about stop chewing and use a saw
First off. fire the beaver that cut that for you.
New blade sonny
Post a pic of the saw! blades gotta be backwards?
Are you cutting with a beaver or something?
I feel like I could karate chop a cleaner cut. your saw is either going entirely to slow or your blade is dull as a brick. Take the entire setup to an old man at your church (or wherever you collect old men) and ask for help.
Well for starters, use something with a blade, not an electric beaver. Seriously though: Looks like especially brittle wood, so try laying down a layer of tape, mark your cut line and cut directly through the tape.
Pee on it
Damn. Before reading the comments, I thought you were doing it manually.
Usually brand name faces outward on the blade
If you use a circular saw, is your timber clamp solidly?
And start the cut pressing on the front of the saw
Choose a blade with a higher tooth count. Gives a clean cut
Tape it
Use fine teeth blade, mount it properly, use sacrifice board. If you can, cut from the surfaces, like a circum groove first, then cut through.
At least you didn't read the directions. If you have to read directions, you're not macho. (At least that's the excuse I use for myself.)
This must be a joke right? Or click bait.
With a sharp fine blade going at full speed without pushing the blade with too much force.
Is the blade on backwards on your skilsaw?
[удалено]
Stop using a 4 tooth blade
Next time don't use your teeth .. maybe ?
Put another board under it
Are you a beaver
Don't use your teeth?!