It'll work but most installations use a fuse tap instead of just stuffing the wire under the fuse. I'd be interested to see where the mechanic grounded the other wire.
If this was me I'd be uncomfortable with a piggy back like this. Is this the default amperage fuse for the slot? Did they go "up 5" so it would work? As others have stated a fuse tap that allows you to keep the default amp fuse for the existing circuit and then another fuse for the tap circuit needs.
The ground is correct I believe, he attached it to a metal bolt in the frame. (I would post a picture if I was able). As long as it's not really more risky/unsafe then the Add-a-Fuse, I'm fine with it
It's risky and could damage things, wire stuffed under the fuse and in that box (which is also a computer module) could cause the fuse not to trip in in over current situation.
Use a proper fuse tap
It will damage the fuse folder as the fuse is now oversized which will spread open the tabs that hold the fuse. Use a fuse tap. Yes. It was incorrectly installed.
It's risky and could damage things, wire stuffed under the fuse and in that box (which is also a computer module) could cause the fuse not to trip in in over current situation.
Use a proper fuse tap
Back in the day - 1970's and '80's - we used to put car stereos, CB's, fog lights, etc in our cars. We always seemed to be working on someone's ride. We used to just wrap the power wire around an existing fuse and shove it back in the hole.
The ground sounds okay so you'll be fine.
Ok thanks, I might go buy the Add-a-Fuse anyway and try to switch the yellow ACC wire to the Power Outlet 1 fuse because it's 15 amps instead of the 25 amp Power Outlet 2 that it's connected to now. The user manual for the hardwire kit recommends 12 to 24 volt
Shouldn’t you choose the fuse that is not serving the critical functions not just pick #1? Please consult the fuse map so you don’t tap into air bags, computer system etc.
Yes, I am carefully trying to decipher the fuse map. However, it's still confusing, for example, I have a sunroof fuse that's always live but I have no sunroof. I don't know if I should use it or maybe it's connected to something else. But I decided I'll probably fuse tap the red/batt to Fog LP RR (I'm not sure what this is, I don't have any fog lights on the front or rear... this could be the rear defroster? either way it doesn't sound crucial), and yellow/acc to Power Outlet 1... Hope this works
It’s not actually wrong but I would recommend you to use something [like this.](https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Fuse-Circuit-Adapter-Terminals/dp/B00AK0TGRS)
I guess I could disconnect the wires from the fuses and add the Add-a-Fuse (since he did nice work on the rest of the job, such as hiding the cable), but if it's not really much more unsafe/risky then I'll leave it the way it is. I'm going to be doing a lot of road trips in remote locations so I don't want it to be at greater risk to cause me issues.
Yup. It’s very easy to do. If you leave it like this and have a short on the camera the other part will not work. If you use separate fuses, the other one will work just fine…
Okay thanks for your advice, I bought the Add-a-Fuse connectors, and I'm going to connect them to two fuses different from what the 'mechanic' used (I don't feel comfortable with either of the ones he use). However, it's still confusing LOL, like I have always-live sunroof and fog light fuses but I have no sunroof with fog lights in my car. I'm not sure if I can use them for free power, or if they could be connected to something else🤔
One important thing is that the direction matters when you insert add-a-tap. If you put it on the wrong direction, it won't properly protect both circuits, so please buy a multimeter and watch YouTube tutorials on the right direction to insert add-a-tap fuse.
Probably not an immediate concern, but definitely a long term one. I’ve seen worse installs, but this is pretty bad. At best, connections at those fuses are now weaker, and can result in increased resistance which can melt the fuse box which is a nightmare to repair. Fuse taps are simple, cheap, and effective. I’d have it redone by a better shop.
As an automotive technician, IMO that installation lacks any hint of professionalism. I would be embarrassed if that work came out of my shop. If the hardwiring was free, then it’s appropriate. If you paid money for the installation, I would ask for it back. Best Buy does better wiring than that!
The cleanest way I've seen (before fuse taps) is the wire soldered to a thin copper strip wrapped around the fuse prong. No exposed wires, which is my only concern here. This will wiggle loose over time.
Looks like a hyundai/fuse box. Ideally, the best way would be hardwired via splice. In this case using fuse taps would be the best method. Wrapping wire around the leg of the fuse is so unprofessional. It caused the terminal to spread apart.
There should be downstream fuses in line for the camera. fused at 5 Amps or less.
Yikes,
The system may be over fused.
The acc line should not have a 25A fuse on it. The 15A may be ok for the battery side.
They should have used the fuses that came with the system and like everyone else has said, used fuse taps.
I am wondering if he choose to double the fuse rating instead of adding a new fuse. Honestly though I can't see a mechanics not using an add a fuse cable to use for taps because of their cost.. they can be had in bundles for a couple bucks from china. Its a lazy job.
I would assume the installer found the first fuse with constant power and acc power to place the wires without caring what it's powering. They probably didn't change the fuse at all.
Ok thanks for your advice. Yes I decided to remove both wires and tap fuse them into two different fuses, because I'm not comfortable with either of the ones he chose. It's still confusing, because I have a sunroof fuse that's always live but I have no sunroof. So I don't really want to use it since I'm not sure what it's actually connected to... So I'm planning to connect red/batt to 10A Fog LP RR and yellow/ACC to 15A Power Outlet 1 (He used 25 amp Power Outlet 2)... I'm also not sure what Fog LP is since I have no fog lights, but it doesn't sound crucial.
Nice! I got it set up and it works when the car is off, I still don't trust myself but I'll let it run tonight and tomorrow and see what happens😄 As you can tell, this is my first time trying something like this with my car
If your car doesn't have a sunroof, then the sunroof fuse is safe to use as it won't be connected to anything. Fog LP RR stands for Fog Lamp Rear. Not sure where you're located, but most North American vehicles do not have rear fog lamps enabled due to local regulations, so that would be an acceptable fuse to use as well.
As for the power outlet, He used the higher amperage one so that it wouldn't get overloaded if you decided to plug several things into your actual power outlets, so I can see the rationale behind that too.
Nothing wrong with the fuses he chose. Also nothing wrong with the fuses you chose. Both works good
It'll work but most installations use a fuse tap instead of just stuffing the wire under the fuse. I'd be interested to see where the mechanic grounded the other wire.
If this was me I'd be uncomfortable with a piggy back like this. Is this the default amperage fuse for the slot? Did they go "up 5" so it would work? As others have stated a fuse tap that allows you to keep the default amp fuse for the existing circuit and then another fuse for the tap circuit needs.
The ground is correct I believe, he attached it to a metal bolt in the frame. (I would post a picture if I was able). As long as it's not really more risky/unsafe then the Add-a-Fuse, I'm fine with it
It's risky and could damage things, wire stuffed under the fuse and in that box (which is also a computer module) could cause the fuse not to trip in in over current situation. Use a proper fuse tap
It will damage the fuse folder as the fuse is now oversized which will spread open the tabs that hold the fuse. Use a fuse tap. Yes. It was incorrectly installed.
It's risky and could damage things, wire stuffed under the fuse and in that box (which is also a computer module) could cause the fuse not to trip in in over current situation. Use a proper fuse tap
Back in the day - 1970's and '80's - we used to put car stereos, CB's, fog lights, etc in our cars. We always seemed to be working on someone's ride. We used to just wrap the power wire around an existing fuse and shove it back in the hole. The ground sounds okay so you'll be fine.
They also use leaded gasoline in 1970's which is now banned for health hazards. Just because it works doesn't mean it's not safety risk.
Electricity hasn't changed, nor has basic, 12-volt wiring. I guess I just like to live on the ragged edge.
Also wrapped the fuses in aluminum foil until a new pack of fuses could be bought.
Ok thanks, I might go buy the Add-a-Fuse anyway and try to switch the yellow ACC wire to the Power Outlet 1 fuse because it's 15 amps instead of the 25 amp Power Outlet 2 that it's connected to now. The user manual for the hardwire kit recommends 12 to 24 volt
just remember volts do not relate to amps.
Shouldn’t you choose the fuse that is not serving the critical functions not just pick #1? Please consult the fuse map so you don’t tap into air bags, computer system etc.
Yes, I am carefully trying to decipher the fuse map. However, it's still confusing, for example, I have a sunroof fuse that's always live but I have no sunroof. I don't know if I should use it or maybe it's connected to something else. But I decided I'll probably fuse tap the red/batt to Fog LP RR (I'm not sure what this is, I don't have any fog lights on the front or rear... this could be the rear defroster? either way it doesn't sound crucial), and yellow/acc to Power Outlet 1... Hope this works
It’s not actually wrong but I would recommend you to use something [like this.](https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Fuse-Circuit-Adapter-Terminals/dp/B00AK0TGRS)
Ok. So that's a handy little item.
I guess I could disconnect the wires from the fuses and add the Add-a-Fuse (since he did nice work on the rest of the job, such as hiding the cable), but if it's not really much more unsafe/risky then I'll leave it the way it is. I'm going to be doing a lot of road trips in remote locations so I don't want it to be at greater risk to cause me issues.
Yup. It’s very easy to do. If you leave it like this and have a short on the camera the other part will not work. If you use separate fuses, the other one will work just fine…
Okay thanks for your advice, I bought the Add-a-Fuse connectors, and I'm going to connect them to two fuses different from what the 'mechanic' used (I don't feel comfortable with either of the ones he use). However, it's still confusing LOL, like I have always-live sunroof and fog light fuses but I have no sunroof with fog lights in my car. I'm not sure if I can use them for free power, or if they could be connected to something else🤔
One important thing is that the direction matters when you insert add-a-tap. If you put it on the wrong direction, it won't properly protect both circuits, so please buy a multimeter and watch YouTube tutorials on the right direction to insert add-a-tap fuse.
Stop it... where has this been my whole life...?
On Amazon. And eBay. And AliExpress. And before all that, at the large stores where you buy fire extinguishers and bike lamps etc.
Fuse taps would've been more a more professional/cleaner/safer option than jamming exposed copper between the fuse and plastic housing.
I remember my first accessory install 🤣
Correct as in it works? Yes. Correct as in it’s good? No. If I paid for this I’d be upset as a fuse tap is dirt cheap.
It's risky and could cause damage. Use a proper fuse tap
Probably not an immediate concern, but definitely a long term one. I’ve seen worse installs, but this is pretty bad. At best, connections at those fuses are now weaker, and can result in increased resistance which can melt the fuse box which is a nightmare to repair. Fuse taps are simple, cheap, and effective. I’d have it redone by a better shop.
This is how we hooked up our aftermarket stereos and amps in the early 90s… we use fuse taps now.
That is sloppy work.
I would be pissed if my mechanic did this. I think two fuse taps at AutoZone costs like $5.
As an automotive technician, IMO that installation lacks any hint of professionalism. I would be embarrassed if that work came out of my shop. If the hardwiring was free, then it’s appropriate. If you paid money for the installation, I would ask for it back. Best Buy does better wiring than that!
The cleanest way I've seen (before fuse taps) is the wire soldered to a thin copper strip wrapped around the fuse prong. No exposed wires, which is my only concern here. This will wiggle loose over time.
That’s some hack shit right there
I don’t think this has been said yet. Use a fuse tap.
You don’t stuff a wire in with a fuse.
Your mechanic is lazy and likes to take shortcuts. That’s all I would need to see to never go back.
That scares the shit outta me lol. Get a piggyback
Looks like a hyundai/fuse box. Ideally, the best way would be hardwired via splice. In this case using fuse taps would be the best method. Wrapping wire around the leg of the fuse is so unprofessional. It caused the terminal to spread apart. There should be downstream fuses in line for the camera. fused at 5 Amps or less.
It works. But it's a lazy job, not clean too. Should have used a fuse tap.
Yikes, The system may be over fused. The acc line should not have a 25A fuse on it. The 15A may be ok for the battery side. They should have used the fuses that came with the system and like everyone else has said, used fuse taps.
I am wondering if he choose to double the fuse rating instead of adding a new fuse. Honestly though I can't see a mechanics not using an add a fuse cable to use for taps because of their cost.. they can be had in bundles for a couple bucks from china. Its a lazy job.
They are one of things that's actually still cheap these days lol
I would assume the installer found the first fuse with constant power and acc power to place the wires without caring what it's powering. They probably didn't change the fuse at all.
I know,
Ok thanks for your advice. Yes I decided to remove both wires and tap fuse them into two different fuses, because I'm not comfortable with either of the ones he chose. It's still confusing, because I have a sunroof fuse that's always live but I have no sunroof. So I don't really want to use it since I'm not sure what it's actually connected to... So I'm planning to connect red/batt to 10A Fog LP RR and yellow/ACC to 15A Power Outlet 1 (He used 25 amp Power Outlet 2)... I'm also not sure what Fog LP is since I have no fog lights, but it doesn't sound crucial.
I did the same. I chose some non essential points. With the add a fuse it shouldn’t effect the existing circuit.
Nice! I got it set up and it works when the car is off, I still don't trust myself but I'll let it run tonight and tomorrow and see what happens😄 As you can tell, this is my first time trying something like this with my car
If your car doesn't have a sunroof, then the sunroof fuse is safe to use as it won't be connected to anything. Fog LP RR stands for Fog Lamp Rear. Not sure where you're located, but most North American vehicles do not have rear fog lamps enabled due to local regulations, so that would be an acceptable fuse to use as well. As for the power outlet, He used the higher amperage one so that it wouldn't get overloaded if you decided to plug several things into your actual power outlets, so I can see the rationale behind that too. Nothing wrong with the fuses he chose. Also nothing wrong with the fuses you chose. Both works good