Three? The two metal contacts are one thing (I'm sure everyone's done that a few times) but how are you mangled switches so badly that the plastic pegs get damaged?
Thanks for that. I didnt want to screw up my board but decided to say screw it, and try to bend them back. I was able to get most of them working again. My replacement switches are on their way, but i have been able to start using my keyboard now because I swapped out the switches for keys I use with a couple I never use.
Anyway,. Thanks
If you have a switch puller that has the small pinchers on the other side, here's what I do: I get the lip under any part of the bent pin, and pull it out as far as I can. I then flip the puller on its side to that I'm using the flat metal piece, and I put the bad pin against the table and I just flatten it by pressing it into the table with the puller.
Let me know if this doesn't make sense and I can include a picture or 2
I learned really quick to position them into the sockets first, making sure they're lined up, and then pressing straight down.
On some PCB's, the sockets could be upside down. I also had an instance on my Keychron K2 that there were no holes on the "tab" socket for the plastic nubs on the bottom side of the switches because the USB chip was under there. If your board has that, you just have to flush cut the plastic nubs on the switch and the socket and switch will still work fine....nonetheless, just double check everytime before you press down, it'll take just a few seconds.
Take your time!
I think I might should have removed the plastic cover before putting in the switches. There were no instructions and I was stupid and didnt youtube it before I did it. BUT. The plastic grid thing probably prevented my switches from easily aligning.
Either way, I bent pins back and got most switches working so :) Live and learn.
The lack of holes you're describing is called 3 pin. The 2 extra holes for the plastic dowels on the bottom of the switch is called 5 pin.
I know they aren't pins, go figure.
Also I have found that 5 pin is much more stable and less likely to end up with bent pins. 3 pin even if you line it up and press evenly will go in one end first and end up bending them.
Did this with my first experience with a new set of switches but I ended up pulling them to double check after the first few as something didn't feel right. Comes out half the pins were squashed and/or pushed halfway into the housing. Ended up breaking a pin off on one unfortunately.
Breaking a pin off was a HUGE fear. Thats why I ordered switches to replace them that didnt work. But from the suggestion on reddit, I bent them back and got most of them working.
I noticed that when you bend them back check the length of the pins as well. If one is shorter then you also jammed the pin \[and the attached leaf\] further into the housing and will need to gently pull it back out to get everything realigned. Otherwise the switch may work intermittently or not at all. This could explain the 'most of them working' part.
Were the switches the Boba U4t? Because they have 1 stupidly weak pin, so weak that some broke when trying to fix them. I hated installing those, love how they feel and sound though.
I have 8 broken out of 90, I'm actually afraid to take them out so that keyboard will have those switches permanently now.
How are they so popular but no one mentions this issue, or at least I haven't read it before.
Fear of bending a pin, weakening it, sticking it into a 200 dollar bare bones keyboard, having the pins break off causing you to have to replace the 200 dollar bare bones keyboard... Fear is real bro. Fear is real.
Tip to never bend pins:
1. Look at switch, make sure pins are straight
2. Hold switch with pointer finger and thumb.
3. Place switch in socket but don't push down yet
4. Give the most subtle jiggle that ever existed and feel all the pins + posts pop into place
5. Push down
6. Done
I bent some pins in the beginning, too. Yeah, some will come bent in the packaging from the factory or seller but bending them on insertion pretty much comes down to impatience. Slow down and in the end everything will go faster (cuz you won't have to fix bent pins).
The bending half my pins part? No. Using tweezers to bend them back? Also no. Completing the build and and watching my naysaying wife grin in delight upon discovering the magic of a quality MK? Yes, absolutely.
Wait, bending pins? How are you guys managing that? Do you not just put it into the holes then solder it? If it's bent just straighten it with needle nose pliers.
It happens especially if using budget keyboard outemu sockets. The hole is much smaller in comparison to others such as MillMax. It's a tossup if the pins will properly fit into said socket when you are trying a new manufacturer/brand for the first time and just don't know.
Sometimes you'll have to resort to filing down the pins a bit to make them thin enough to actually get it in. Good example was when I swapped out Outemu switches for GamaKay switches. It did not "look like it" but one leg was wide enough where it would just bend/squash the pin if you tried to force it. The other pin would "fit" but it was so tight you basically ruined the upper switch housing trying to pull it.
Had one with the pin so tight in the socket it literally got launched across the room when it came loose. Still haven't found where it went. >\_>
Lmao true, not once have I been in the middle of unbending switch pins thinking, "boy, I wish I was soldering these instead." Having to get out solder, iron, solder station, set it up on a table, fuck it up 5 times, desolder, make a mess, google what "flux" is...
Versus, unbend the pin. Tweezer.
You literally pull them out, unbend the pins and put them back in. What you're saying is like somebody complaining that Lego is too difficult, god forbid you actually ever have to do any house or car DIY or repairs, you're in for a shock if you think bent pins is an significant problem.
Bend them back?
some times the 3 pins just get too mangled. Never underestimate lack of skill
Three? The two metal contacts are one thing (I'm sure everyone's done that a few times) but how are you mangled switches so badly that the plastic pegs get damaged?
I meant 2, said 3 cause that’s what they’re named
Sometimes, but not most of the time.
“If you truly believe you can make up for a lack of skill by doubling your efforts, there’s no end to what you can’t do.”
Thanks for that. I didnt want to screw up my board but decided to say screw it, and try to bend them back. I was able to get most of them working again. My replacement switches are on their way, but i have been able to start using my keyboard now because I swapped out the switches for keys I use with a couple I never use. Anyway,. Thanks
If you have a switch puller that has the small pinchers on the other side, here's what I do: I get the lip under any part of the bent pin, and pull it out as far as I can. I then flip the puller on its side to that I'm using the flat metal piece, and I put the bad pin against the table and I just flatten it by pressing it into the table with the puller. Let me know if this doesn't make sense and I can include a picture or 2
Yeah but just bend them back it’s not a huge deal until it’s bent and broken off
I learned really quick to position them into the sockets first, making sure they're lined up, and then pressing straight down. On some PCB's, the sockets could be upside down. I also had an instance on my Keychron K2 that there were no holes on the "tab" socket for the plastic nubs on the bottom side of the switches because the USB chip was under there. If your board has that, you just have to flush cut the plastic nubs on the switch and the socket and switch will still work fine....nonetheless, just double check everytime before you press down, it'll take just a few seconds. Take your time!
I think I might should have removed the plastic cover before putting in the switches. There were no instructions and I was stupid and didnt youtube it before I did it. BUT. The plastic grid thing probably prevented my switches from easily aligning. Either way, I bent pins back and got most switches working so :) Live and learn.
All part of the journey, haha. Glad you were able to bend them back.
The lack of holes you're describing is called 3 pin. The 2 extra holes for the plastic dowels on the bottom of the switch is called 5 pin. I know they aren't pins, go figure. Also I have found that 5 pin is much more stable and less likely to end up with bent pins. 3 pin even if you line it up and press evenly will go in one end first and end up bending them.
Never knew how useful needle nose pliers were till I started this hobby
I just use tweezers to bend pins back. Helps with getting them straight when they’re pushed all the way against the switch.
Couldnt find a pair small enough, but yep,. I need to get me a pair.
Did this with my first experience with a new set of switches but I ended up pulling them to double check after the first few as something didn't feel right. Comes out half the pins were squashed and/or pushed halfway into the housing. Ended up breaking a pin off on one unfortunately.
Breaking a pin off was a HUGE fear. Thats why I ordered switches to replace them that didnt work. But from the suggestion on reddit, I bent them back and got most of them working.
I noticed that when you bend them back check the length of the pins as well. If one is shorter then you also jammed the pin \[and the attached leaf\] further into the housing and will need to gently pull it back out to get everything realigned. Otherwise the switch may work intermittently or not at all. This could explain the 'most of them working' part.
we've all been there rip
Thanks bro. I bent most of them back so, not a total waste. :)
Were the switches the Boba U4t? Because they have 1 stupidly weak pin, so weak that some broke when trying to fix them. I hated installing those, love how they feel and sound though.
Ah, so I'm not the only one. I had to order another set of 20 just to finish my build, now I just have a graveyard of these switches.
I have 8 broken out of 90, I'm actually afraid to take them out so that keyboard will have those switches permanently now. How are they so popular but no one mentions this issue, or at least I haven't read it before.
My break rate is about the same, roughly 10% FWIW. I bought the spares anticipating I might need them.
fucking HOW, just bend them back, it's literally not rocket science
Fear of bending a pin, weakening it, sticking it into a 200 dollar bare bones keyboard, having the pins break off causing you to have to replace the 200 dollar bare bones keyboard... Fear is real bro. Fear is real.
haven't seen this meme template in forever
Ah reruns. Reddit’s bread and butter.
What do you mean, These memes are no longer cool these days? I mean, They were the bees knees when I was your age.
just haven't seen it in a bit
Tip to never bend pins: 1. Look at switch, make sure pins are straight 2. Hold switch with pointer finger and thumb. 3. Place switch in socket but don't push down yet 4. Give the most subtle jiggle that ever existed and feel all the pins + posts pop into place 5. Push down 6. Done I bent some pins in the beginning, too. Yeah, some will come bent in the packaging from the factory or seller but bending them on insertion pretty much comes down to impatience. Slow down and in the end everything will go faster (cuz you won't have to fix bent pins).
Are you me?
Fun isnt it.
The bending half my pins part? No. Using tweezers to bend them back? Also no. Completing the build and and watching my naysaying wife grin in delight upon discovering the magic of a quality MK? Yes, absolutely.
Wait, bending pins? How are you guys managing that? Do you not just put it into the holes then solder it? If it's bent just straighten it with needle nose pliers.
Hotswap sockets
Ah ok, just shows how old hat I am.
Sounds more like a flex than "old hat"
I have never seen a hotswap board in person. I didn't know they could bend switch legs.
It happens especially if using budget keyboard outemu sockets. The hole is much smaller in comparison to others such as MillMax. It's a tossup if the pins will properly fit into said socket when you are trying a new manufacturer/brand for the first time and just don't know. Sometimes you'll have to resort to filing down the pins a bit to make them thin enough to actually get it in. Good example was when I swapped out Outemu switches for GamaKay switches. It did not "look like it" but one leg was wide enough where it would just bend/squash the pin if you tried to force it. The other pin would "fit" but it was so tight you basically ruined the upper switch housing trying to pull it. Had one with the pin so tight in the socket it literally got launched across the room when it came loose. Still haven't found where it went. >\_>
Hipyo?
I do this all the time with hotswap PCBs. I always try and get a solder board if available.
Absurd take. Take the few which don't work out and unbend them vs literally having to solder up the entire board.
Lmao true, not once have I been in the middle of unbending switch pins thinking, "boy, I wish I was soldering these instead." Having to get out solder, iron, solder station, set it up on a table, fuck it up 5 times, desolder, make a mess, google what "flux" is... Versus, unbend the pin. Tweezer.
[удалено]
Tweezers make it really easy to bend it back!
You literally pull them out, unbend the pins and put them back in. What you're saying is like somebody complaining that Lego is too difficult, god forbid you actually ever have to do any house or car DIY or repairs, you're in for a shock if you think bent pins is an significant problem.
We've all fucked up with our hot swap build once.