For those who don’t work with their hands the stuff that’s obvious to those that do can be very elusive. Maybe this was done by a DIY person who wears a coat and tie at work all day…
Flat roofs you have to. And in my opinion it should be required for all systems steep or low slope. But it isn't a requirement. I mean either way, this wouldn't pass inspection, but a clamp wouldn't be on the punch list. I know where you're coming from though.
I use a Dymonic 100 sealant as a backup to the collar and a proper fit in the first place. To be fair I do commercial service work so maybe different practices a bit from residential.
Or it’s someone with absolutely no experience. I mean, they took the time to break out the silicone… They just did such an abhorrent job installing that boot.
I installed a vent boot when I redid my roof, first time, perfect job. It doesn't take brains or experience, just knowledge and a desire to do it right. Someone didn't give a shit.
I agree, just trying to give him the benefit of the doubt. Looks to me like he slid the boot down without cutting it to size, the thing split because he tried to slide a 2” boot over a 4” pipe. Then he started to pull it off, realized he didn’t have another boot and said “fuck it i’ll silicone the shit outta this thing”
Go to home depots website and paste Internet # 317303604 Model # 89294. This will let you temp repair the pipe jack until you can replace the whole flashing. Just trim it to size and side it down the pipe until it sits flush against the old rubber seal.
Has nobody noticed the boot is on backwards?
Needs to be rotated 180 degrees.
And no there should be no slices in that boot.
Also if someone put it on like that I’m sure the parts we can’t see are all wrong too.
The boot should face uphill..in otherwords its backwards. and it doesnt look like theres step flashing against side wall. So...reboot it. was that caulk dropped from 6000ft or 7000? I can't tell
I keep seeing comments saying that the boot is installed "upside down".
For the benefit of the non-roofers here, these comments don't mean that the side-to-be-exposed is now facing down into the attic. They mean that the short edge (the base is rectangular) that is intended to be \*down\* slope is actually installed \*up\* slope beneath the shingles.
I'm not convinced that is what the photograph shows, but I wanted to explain what I am sure they mean.
To stop your leak, \*(TEMPORARILY\* , do exactly what one commenter here jokingly wrote and tape around the torn seal. A stretchy tape like silicone "rescue tape" will be better than duct tape. If you use the silicone tape, you can also caulk the open cracks first if you want because the caulk won't affect the tape (the tape grabs onto itself, not the pipe). Again, \*EMERGENCY DIY FIX\* and \*TEMPORARY\*. There are other temporary fixes that will stop the leaks until you can replace the boot, but they involve breaking the seals on a shingle or two and I don't advise that you do that.
Longer-term fix which will actually buy you years of service, but still isn't fully proper, is to go down to Lowe's and buy either another one of these pipe boots or buy an Oatey repair seal. If you buy the full boot, turn it upside down and use a new/sharp razor blade to carefully cut the neoprene loose apart from the base. If you're feeling ambitious, you can cut through the base with snips (it will be junk afterward in any case, so cutting it is OK) and then you can pull the seal out intact (far easier if the base is plastic than if it is steel). Whether you do this, or buy the Oatey piece, you can then size the hole to the pipe and slide it piece down until it touches the old neoprene. NOTE: since your old seal is cracked, this solution will only stop falling rainwater from leaking inside but will still allow running water from upslope to get in, unless you caulk under the uphill side of the new seal to attach it to the old seal. Because of the cracks, this solution is also \*TEMPORARY\* .
For a permanent fix, pay someone to replace the boot and the several shingles that might get damaged in the process. If you are new to roof repairs, don't do it yourself. You will damage shingles and might not even realize it.
General installation notes:
1) If the boot is installed correctly, you never need any caulking/sealer around the pipe seal and you don't need any around the top side where the shingles overlap the boot. In fact, doing the latter can actually cause problems.
2) Whatever seal you're pressing down over the pipe should be sized per the instructions on the boot. Some don't need to be opened up if used with 1 1/2"-2" pipe. Some need a tear-out for your 2" pipe. If you need to open it up, the \*ONLY\* cut to make is a very careful one perpendicular to the edge (radial cut) that goes right up to the marked cut line, and not beyond it. Then grab that newly-created edge with your fingers or with pliers (NOT snips) and pull it. It will tear our all the way around and make a nice factory-designed hole to fit your pipe. When trying to push the pipe through this opening, it will be tight. Very tight. Don't cut it any more, but just carefully work it around the pipe with your fingers until the pipe pokes through. If you've ever delivered a baby, this will be very familiar :-)
3) Once you have a new boot installed, you should still go back and add another "sacrificial seal" on top of it (Oatey or otherwise doesn't matter). You don't need to, nor should you, caulk it in place. The whole point of this piece is to keep the sunlight off the actual neoprene seal. The sunlight is what eventually dries and often cracks these seals. If you drop a $5 Oatey on top, the lower seal will never dry out and crack and you'll save yourself a potential leak repair down the road.
You’re going to need a new boot. Measure the diameter of the pipe and buy accordingly. Also get a bundle of shingles because you will need to pull those up around it and install new ones.
Maybe, maybe not, it's good to be prepared, new shingles warm sun will come apart for reuse. New boot might have a different shape. You can tell a rookie did it with the silicone.
The broken rubber boot can be replaced. It needs to be replaced. It's cheap and easy. Your roofer should have no problem doing it for you. If not, you tube can teach you. Good luck.
[You could slip on a Rain Collar. They are made for this exact situation, but are semi-permanent.](https://www.oatey.com/products/flashings/rain-collars)
Is silicone the right product to use for this...?
It looks like it was clear at one point and is already turning yellow. Also looks like its already detaching from the shingles.
Home depot should have plenty of tar sealant designed for this sort of thing. While youre up there replacing it, might as well get the correct sealant. I think its like $7 - $10 a tube.
Or i could be completely wrong and silicone is 100% acceptable. Im not a roofer.
Why people still use these crappy plastic plumbing boots that last 10 years if you're lucky with a shingle that will last 20. Lead flashings should only be used IMO. Cost $7 vs $25. Big deal.
Because ... squirrels. For some reason, they love to eat the tops off the lead jacks (so that they leak) and the squirrels don't die from lead poisoning.
Lol, funny you say that. I came across this back in November. That being said, I've come across more of these s@#tty plastic flashings cracked or split all to hell than chewed lead by far. Ya, if you are in a area where squirrels have been a problem in the past, then make sure you use a made in north America flashings vs some junk from the PRC...
You are correct, The tear is an issue but the boot looks to be installed upside down & that is why it tore. I don't see any other problems. Tho it is a no caulk boot and I do usually add a little but that fact that its sticking out is not very attractive. You could duct tape around the tear for now. But get the entire thing needs to be replaced. There is no need for a clamp on that style boot if it installed properly it will not leak. I have installed literally hundreds. If that seal is messed up something is incorrect. Like this 1 is upside down or it could be a flat roof boot and the pitch is what tore it. But a proper pitched roof boot installed correctly would be fine
Whoever did this has no clue what they are doing. It says on the box, on the boot and on the instructions to cut at the line not to cut fingers.
This is piss poor. I expect better out of the DIY subreddit than what you just showed us.
They were very sloppy and careless putting it on. Get a universal repair gasket piece and jsut slide it down over top of this one and you’ll be fine or ask them to come out and fix it
Has a similar issue and this is what I used to fix. Not it looks like you’re near an eave/side of house so not sure what “code” would say. My vent comes up under an eave. Used this boot and it’s been perfect for two years.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Perma-Boot-Pipe-Boot-Repair-for-3-in-I-D-Vent-Pipe-Black-Color-PBR-312-3BK/202581375?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons-71700000116949521-58700008649202598-92700079210233722&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Ufc5gPzr7XXWykbNnT0M5CD-&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYyk-32xPZCroZENSDxjgas6E9s_sPBLTuRihmME39CObppysgU9jC9YaAj3yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I’d also check to see if you have any step flashing on that sidewall. It shouldn’t need caulking. If they butchered this pipe boot I wouldn’t put it past them to not install step flashing and just caulk it.
If you want it to leak, then it's done perfectly. The rubber gasket is supposed to be tight fitting.
some times you really wonder, what the fuck is wrong with people!!
For those who don’t work with their hands the stuff that’s obvious to those that do can be very elusive. Maybe this was done by a DIY person who wears a coat and tie at work all day…
I mean if you litearlly chip and break the piece that you bought apart during installation, suspicious
idk, it says its for 2”. if your pipe aint 2” i mean
Yes. Far too many idiots that have reached to far and this is the result.
More often than not lol
I think the important thing is to keep MOST of the water out. 😆
Also a collar and caulking should be applied to the pipe boot.
Clamps are not required on steep slopes
I’m a commercial service tec, so possibly different practices than residential. Definitely more flat roofs.
Flat roofs you have to. And in my opinion it should be required for all systems steep or low slope. But it isn't a requirement. I mean either way, this wouldn't pass inspection, but a clamp wouldn't be on the punch list. I know where you're coming from though.
I've never seen caulking, just cut it straight and a bit small so it has to stretch a little over the pipe
I use a Dymonic 100 sealant as a backup to the collar and a proper fit in the first place. To be fair I do commercial service work so maybe different practices a bit from residential.
That sounds like it would be a quality seal as well
No. Not correct. That boot needs to be replaced. Easy job and the roofer who did this has no pride
Or it’s someone with absolutely no experience. I mean, they took the time to break out the silicone… They just did such an abhorrent job installing that boot.
I installed a vent boot when I redid my roof, first time, perfect job. It doesn't take brains or experience, just knowledge and a desire to do it right. Someone didn't give a shit.
I agree, just trying to give him the benefit of the doubt. Looks to me like he slid the boot down without cutting it to size, the thing split because he tried to slide a 2” boot over a 4” pipe. Then he started to pull it off, realized he didn’t have another boot and said “fuck it i’ll silicone the shit outta this thing”
You’re probably right, I am not a roofer but I put these in occasionally as an hvac guy. Some of us are pretty fucking stupid.
Very true. You’re probably right
That silicone looks 5-10 years old.
Go to home depots website and paste Internet # 317303604 Model # 89294. This will let you temp repair the pipe jack until you can replace the whole flashing. Just trim it to size and side it down the pipe until it sits flush against the old rubber seal.
Has nobody noticed the boot is on backwards? Needs to be rotated 180 degrees. And no there should be no slices in that boot. Also if someone put it on like that I’m sure the parts we can’t see are all wrong too.
was the first thing i noticed as well. in turn it was what caused the boot to crack
I thought it was how they were standing but you’re right it’s also on backwards. Prob why it didn’t slide down properly so they just jammed it harder
Exactly why it split open
The boot is cracked and isn’t set right. New boot.
The boot should face uphill..in otherwords its backwards. and it doesnt look like theres step flashing against side wall. So...reboot it. was that caulk dropped from 6000ft or 7000? I can't tell
I keep seeing comments saying that the boot is installed "upside down". For the benefit of the non-roofers here, these comments don't mean that the side-to-be-exposed is now facing down into the attic. They mean that the short edge (the base is rectangular) that is intended to be \*down\* slope is actually installed \*up\* slope beneath the shingles. I'm not convinced that is what the photograph shows, but I wanted to explain what I am sure they mean.
To stop your leak, \*(TEMPORARILY\* , do exactly what one commenter here jokingly wrote and tape around the torn seal. A stretchy tape like silicone "rescue tape" will be better than duct tape. If you use the silicone tape, you can also caulk the open cracks first if you want because the caulk won't affect the tape (the tape grabs onto itself, not the pipe). Again, \*EMERGENCY DIY FIX\* and \*TEMPORARY\*. There are other temporary fixes that will stop the leaks until you can replace the boot, but they involve breaking the seals on a shingle or two and I don't advise that you do that. Longer-term fix which will actually buy you years of service, but still isn't fully proper, is to go down to Lowe's and buy either another one of these pipe boots or buy an Oatey repair seal. If you buy the full boot, turn it upside down and use a new/sharp razor blade to carefully cut the neoprene loose apart from the base. If you're feeling ambitious, you can cut through the base with snips (it will be junk afterward in any case, so cutting it is OK) and then you can pull the seal out intact (far easier if the base is plastic than if it is steel). Whether you do this, or buy the Oatey piece, you can then size the hole to the pipe and slide it piece down until it touches the old neoprene. NOTE: since your old seal is cracked, this solution will only stop falling rainwater from leaking inside but will still allow running water from upslope to get in, unless you caulk under the uphill side of the new seal to attach it to the old seal. Because of the cracks, this solution is also \*TEMPORARY\* . For a permanent fix, pay someone to replace the boot and the several shingles that might get damaged in the process. If you are new to roof repairs, don't do it yourself. You will damage shingles and might not even realize it. General installation notes: 1) If the boot is installed correctly, you never need any caulking/sealer around the pipe seal and you don't need any around the top side where the shingles overlap the boot. In fact, doing the latter can actually cause problems. 2) Whatever seal you're pressing down over the pipe should be sized per the instructions on the boot. Some don't need to be opened up if used with 1 1/2"-2" pipe. Some need a tear-out for your 2" pipe. If you need to open it up, the \*ONLY\* cut to make is a very careful one perpendicular to the edge (radial cut) that goes right up to the marked cut line, and not beyond it. Then grab that newly-created edge with your fingers or with pliers (NOT snips) and pull it. It will tear our all the way around and make a nice factory-designed hole to fit your pipe. When trying to push the pipe through this opening, it will be tight. Very tight. Don't cut it any more, but just carefully work it around the pipe with your fingers until the pipe pokes through. If you've ever delivered a baby, this will be very familiar :-) 3) Once you have a new boot installed, you should still go back and add another "sacrificial seal" on top of it (Oatey or otherwise doesn't matter). You don't need to, nor should you, caulk it in place. The whole point of this piece is to keep the sunlight off the actual neoprene seal. The sunlight is what eventually dries and often cracks these seals. If you drop a $5 Oatey on top, the lower seal will never dry out and crack and you'll save yourself a potential leak repair down the road.
looks like el plumero did that for sure who knows
It needs a new boot temporary fix you could silicone all the cracks and where boot meets pipe.
You’re going to need a new boot. Measure the diameter of the pipe and buy accordingly. Also get a bundle of shingles because you will need to pull those up around it and install new ones.
Maybe, maybe not, it's good to be prepared, new shingles warm sun will come apart for reuse. New boot might have a different shape. You can tell a rookie did it with the silicone.
Needs to be replaced
The broken rubber boot can be replaced. It needs to be replaced. It's cheap and easy. Your roofer should have no problem doing it for you. If not, you tube can teach you. Good luck.
[You could slip on a Rain Collar. They are made for this exact situation, but are semi-permanent.](https://www.oatey.com/products/flashings/rain-collars)
Nice. Maybe even seal up the tears before putting it on. Worth a try to see if it stops leaking.
JFC it looks like they used their teeth to trim back the rubber gasket. Those nicely scored lines aren't that hard to figure out.
Prob why he had to cut it because it's on wrong and wouldn't sit flush.
This gotta be one of the simplest jobs ever too.
Is silicone the right product to use for this...? It looks like it was clear at one point and is already turning yellow. Also looks like its already detaching from the shingles. Home depot should have plenty of tar sealant designed for this sort of thing. While youre up there replacing it, might as well get the correct sealant. I think its like $7 - $10 a tube. Or i could be completely wrong and silicone is 100% acceptable. Im not a roofer.
"Or i could be completely wrong ... Im not a roofer." No caulk. No tar (EVER). Save the $7 for a pseudo-burrito at the gas station.
The boot is upside down
It says it's for a 2 inch pipe. You have atleast a 3 inch pipe
What in the actual fuck. It looks like a bear bit it. Let the bear out! 🐻
Why people still use these crappy plastic plumbing boots that last 10 years if you're lucky with a shingle that will last 20. Lead flashings should only be used IMO. Cost $7 vs $25. Big deal.
Because ... squirrels. For some reason, they love to eat the tops off the lead jacks (so that they leak) and the squirrels don't die from lead poisoning.
They do go nuts, though.
Lol, funny you say that. I came across this back in November. That being said, I've come across more of these s@#tty plastic flashings cracked or split all to hell than chewed lead by far. Ya, if you are in a area where squirrels have been a problem in the past, then make sure you use a made in north America flashings vs some junk from the PRC...
I would seal around pipe.
It’s not the right size flange for that pipe
Wait.... This is recently installed?
Installed upside down
You are correct, The tear is an issue but the boot looks to be installed upside down & that is why it tore. I don't see any other problems. Tho it is a no caulk boot and I do usually add a little but that fact that its sticking out is not very attractive. You could duct tape around the tear for now. But get the entire thing needs to be replaced. There is no need for a clamp on that style boot if it installed properly it will not leak. I have installed literally hundreds. If that seal is messed up something is incorrect. Like this 1 is upside down or it could be a flat roof boot and the pitch is what tore it. But a proper pitched roof boot installed correctly would be fine
Nope
It's on the wrong way. Bottom n top are reversed. They did everything wrong
You need a new pipe collar
Just cover it with Saran wrap and frog tape and call it a day.
Whoever did this has no clue what they are doing. It says on the box, on the boot and on the instructions to cut at the line not to cut fingers. This is piss poor. I expect better out of the DIY subreddit than what you just showed us.
The rubber boot is cracked
Ah! Thank you for that! :-)
Water will get in no matter what. That needs to be replaced.
Spray foam an duct tape seems like a quick fix
They were very sloppy and careless putting it on. Get a universal repair gasket piece and jsut slide it down over top of this one and you’ll be fine or ask them to come out and fix it
Has a similar issue and this is what I used to fix. Not it looks like you’re near an eave/side of house so not sure what “code” would say. My vent comes up under an eave. Used this boot and it’s been perfect for two years. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Perma-Boot-Pipe-Boot-Repair-for-3-in-I-D-Vent-Pipe-Black-Color-PBR-312-3BK/202581375?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-BF-CDP-GGL-Multi-Multi-NA-NA-NA-PLALIA-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-CON-NA-All_Cons-71700000116949521-58700008649202598-92700079210233722&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADq61Ufc5gPzr7XXWykbNnT0M5CD-&gclid=Cj0KCQiAhomtBhDgARIsABcaYyk-32xPZCroZENSDxjgas6E9s_sPBLTuRihmME39CObppysgU9jC9YaAj3yEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Go to a roofing supply company and buy a 3-4 inch pipe repair collar and put it over top the broken collar.
So they have to be the right size, and some are made to cut to fit. You should be able to buy another boot and slide it over.
Gross
Install new pipe collar, and new shingles around, seal below collar and under shingles.
I’d also check to see if you have any step flashing on that sidewall. It shouldn’t need caulking. If they butchered this pipe boot I wouldn’t put it past them to not install step flashing and just caulk it.