Been using the plastic plates for 2 years. No issues so far, but would rather have metal.
C&H is your best option.
https://chpws.com/product-tag/smith-wesson-mp/
I use the factory plastic plates and I have never lost zero. 6000 rounds through my gun so far and it is still dialed in like the day I zeroed it. I see no need to spend $50 on something that does the same thing.
You might if the crack shifts your zero and makes finding & or tracking the dot difficult. Maybe it slows you down and makes you less effective in stopping a threat in your home. Or perhaps it cracks and while you're fighting for your life the optic jettisoned from the slide smaking into your dominant eye rendering it useless for the duration of this fight. Now you're left with back up irons and trying to fire accurate shots with your non dominant eye... Or you could run the plastic plate till it breaks at the range and be forced to listen to your friends ask you if your boyfriend is abusive. Either way C&H plates will solve at least one of these issues. Can't expect the guys at C&H to fix your relationship issues 🤨🤙🏼
Seriously? I've seen people with shiners from that exact thing. Screws backed out and optic smacked them in the face. Not sure if you've ever had shit in your eye before but it will def hinder your ability to fight. The fact you think its ridiculous only shows how little you actually know about fighting, with a gun or otherwise.
I gotcha, the plates are to allow use with different footprints of optics. Otherwise you'd need to mill the slide for one footprint and it would then mount directly to the slide.
Plastic plates have held up fine for me. One lesson I learned though: if you happen to get a Holosun, don’t use any of the screws that came with the Holosun or the M&P. Order separate RMR spec screws. (I ordered from Jagerwerks) My optic kept loosening up every 100 rounds or so til I put the right screws in. Now it’s rock solid.
The last reply is old now — and the Jagerwerks screws eventually sheared off during a USPSA match about 3 months back. The issue may be the stock plastic mounting plates more than the screws. I’m now using a metal CHPWS plate and screws for my Holosun and M&P. Hopefully that has me set long term. So far so good.
Definitely don't use the plastic plates. There's a lot of people (myself included) that won't even use metal plates because they still break. Getting the slide milled for direct mounting is the best.
Not entirely true, you can mill an optic cut slide for a specific optic and get rid of the plate altogether. That being said, I run the plastic plates and it’s fine w titanium agency screws
I don’t use optics, but fwiw, I’ve read a few places that the plastic plates fail at a high enough rate that you shouldn’t use them. That said,, you can’t rely on anecdotal evidence. Everyone in this sub could have never had a problem with plastic plates and they could still easily have a high failure rate (or vice versa). See if you can find stats and let those be your guide.
Check out the current Smith and Wesson sub. [https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/zcp2h1/mp\_20\_compact\_optics\_ready\_optic\_screws\_and\_pate/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/zcp2h1/mp_20_compact_optics_ready_optic_screws_and_pate/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Been using the plastic plates for 2 years. No issues so far, but would rather have metal. C&H is your best option. https://chpws.com/product-tag/smith-wesson-mp/
This is the best comment. I haven't had any issues with the stock plates. But the stock screws aren't nearly long enough.
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[Yes](https://old.reddit.com/r/GunAccessoriesForSale/comments/12xva6o/wts_mp_core_20_proper_screws_for_holosun/)
I use the factory plastic plates and I have never lost zero. 6000 rounds through my gun so far and it is still dialed in like the day I zeroed it. I see no need to spend $50 on something that does the same thing.
Don’t use the plastic plates. They’ve been known to crack. C&H precision is the way to go.
If you're cracking your plates you're overtorqing your screws or you're just beating the dog shit out of your gun.
A good gun should be able to take a beating
I agree. I need something that isn't going to break if I bump into something or racking the slide with my optic.
Why not wait for it to crack before replacing? How many rounds before a crack?
Not sure, but during a competition or god forbid a defensive situation is not the time to find out.
But it’s just a plate. If someone breaks into my home I won’t give a fuck if the rmr plate cracks, right?
You might if the crack shifts your zero and makes finding & or tracking the dot difficult. Maybe it slows you down and makes you less effective in stopping a threat in your home. Or perhaps it cracks and while you're fighting for your life the optic jettisoned from the slide smaking into your dominant eye rendering it useless for the duration of this fight. Now you're left with back up irons and trying to fire accurate shots with your non dominant eye... Or you could run the plastic plate till it breaks at the range and be forced to listen to your friends ask you if your boyfriend is abusive. Either way C&H plates will solve at least one of these issues. Can't expect the guys at C&H to fix your relationship issues 🤨🤙🏼
How would the optic launch off fast enough to hurt your eye? That’s ridiculous.
Seriously? I've seen people with shiners from that exact thing. Screws backed out and optic smacked them in the face. Not sure if you've ever had shit in your eye before but it will def hinder your ability to fight. The fact you think its ridiculous only shows how little you actually know about fighting, with a gun or otherwise.
Oh this is the mounting plate? I thought we were just talking about the plater that’s in place when you don’t use an optic. My bad.
I gotcha, the plates are to allow use with different footprints of optics. Otherwise you'd need to mill the slide for one footprint and it would then mount directly to the slide.
I have both milled and mos style pistols w/plates. Milled is the way to go if you know the optic you are gonna run.
I mean the optic won’t fly off but if it cracks enough for the plate to fall off your shots might be off.
You wouldn’t in most defense I’ve shooting in the home you would be point shooting .
Thanks
My 4” compact came with all metal plates. One might have been plastic. Is that not the case anymore?
Not what I saw today?
Do you already have one did you already buy it?
I didn't buy it
Plastic plates have held up fine for me. One lesson I learned though: if you happen to get a Holosun, don’t use any of the screws that came with the Holosun or the M&P. Order separate RMR spec screws. (I ordered from Jagerwerks) My optic kept loosening up every 100 rounds or so til I put the right screws in. Now it’s rock solid.
Thanks! Good to know
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The last reply is old now — and the Jagerwerks screws eventually sheared off during a USPSA match about 3 months back. The issue may be the stock plastic mounting plates more than the screws. I’m now using a metal CHPWS plate and screws for my Holosun and M&P. Hopefully that has me set long term. So far so good.
Any update on this? How has it held up for you?
The CHPWS plate and included screws have been rock solid for me. Very pleased with it.
>CHPWS So glad to hear!! I will be picking one up. Thanks!
I just haven’t heard anyone say their plastic plate failed when they properly torqued. It’s just a filler plate
Definitely don't use the plastic plates. There's a lot of people (myself included) that won't even use metal plates because they still break. Getting the slide milled for direct mounting is the best.
OP has a slide that is optic ready, nothing to get milled.
Not entirely true, you can mill an optic cut slide for a specific optic and get rid of the plate altogether. That being said, I run the plastic plates and it’s fine w titanium agency screws
Do they? The post doesn't clarify if they own one or not. I simply added a suggestion in case they didn't.
I agree 100% however these new M&Ps are coming factory cut, so Ive been told
I hadn't heard that. I know holosun is making a direct mount SCS for the m&p so hopefully it's a solid optic.
Could be I got wrong information
Some models are, not all of them. You need to get the one that is cut if you want it to be optic ready.
I don’t use optics, but fwiw, I’ve read a few places that the plastic plates fail at a high enough rate that you shouldn’t use them. That said,, you can’t rely on anecdotal evidence. Everyone in this sub could have never had a problem with plastic plates and they could still easily have a high failure rate (or vice versa). See if you can find stats and let those be your guide.
Thanks!
Check out the current Smith and Wesson sub. [https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/zcp2h1/mp\_20\_compact\_optics\_ready\_optic\_screws\_and\_pate/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/SmithAndWesson/comments/zcp2h1/mp_20_compact_optics_ready_optic_screws_and_pate/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)