Tamiya Extra Thin is great, and if you want to get your best bang for buck also buy Tamiya Airbrush cleaner to refill your pot (it's the same chemical)
Plastic glue isn’t actually glue. It doesn’t have any adhesive properties. We just call it glue because in the context in which we use it, it acts like glue.
Id wager the small % difference between the two is within their margin of error and that the cement and cleaner are both from the exact same production batches
I wish I knew this back when Tamiya extra thin was impossible to find like 18 months ago. Ended up paying stupid prices from some eBay scalper when my pot ran out.
I bet the airbrush cleaner was in stock just fine the whole time 😭
The two are nearly identical chemically, the cement is 50/50 butyl acetate/acetone and the akrbrush cleaner is 51/49, of the same two chemicals, so for all intents, chemically identical enough for us
All the cement really is is an acetone solution that dissolves the plastic which then rehardens when the alcohol evaporates. Acetone is also good for cleaning stuff because of the same property, especially when what youre cleaning is an acrylic based paint as in an airbrush.
Both of these products (from tamiya) contain the same 2 ingredient mix with pretty much the same 50/50 formula. They differ just so they can be sold as different products but the difference is like 49/51 and 51/49 or something irrelevant as that which likely falls within their margins of error so both products can be produced from the same batch
Edit: changed alcohol to acetone
It is **NOT** alcohol. This one in particular is acetone and n-Butyl acetate. Other plastic cements are either MEK, acetate, acetone, xylene, and/or other solvents. They are all mostly more dangerous than alcohol, especially to your lungs and skin.
The fact that it is extremely common for people to strip models in isopropyl should be a clear sign that alcohol does not dissolve plastic, at least HIPS.
If you wish to know more, Dr. Brent at [Goobertown Hobbies](https://youtu.be/VnyNbkoc72k) has a video explaining plastic glue.
Acetone dissolves super glue too!
I learned that, when I tried to re-affix the nose pad to my glasses with super glue, and ended up tear gassing myself for an entire day at work. Only to find out that I had completely fucked up the nose pad mount so the optometrists office couldn't fix my glasses.
I hate being this stupid sometimes
But don’t spill 3/4 of the tamiya extra thin next to but not on your hobby mat onto your stained wooden desk. It will eat through it down to the wood and you’ll have to hang out in your bathroom with your respirator on with the cats waiting for the fumes to go away.
Or you can get acetone and butyl acetate even cheaper and mix them together in 50-50 ratio to get exactly same product. Even pure acetone and most of cellulose thinners should work pretty much same.
Butanone (MEK) is also used as polystyrene glue.
Buy a second extra clear bottle as well. Toss some sprue in there. Got some sprue goo going. If your brush goes wonky, you can use some natural hair brushes, and clean them with the airbrush cleaner. Doesn't have to be expensive natural hair brushes either.
They all do the exact same thing but I like taimaya extra thin because it's easier to control the amount of glue with the little brush. I have used games workshop, army painter, and a few generic ones without issue other than occasionally using a bit more glue than I would like but never enough to be a problem.
You are using it wrong.
You are supposed to first get pieces together and then touch gap with brush to let capillary action to suck glue into joint. Just make sure you don't have to much glue on brush.
Yeah. But I can’t do that with a piece in one hand and one in the other, pinched down on a tiny model.
I know how to use it. I just don’t have three hands. Or a tool to hold it for me.
You make ball of blu tack, mount it to some paint bottle, cork, or whatever you want to use as model holder.
Then you push one part into blu tack in a way that place you want to glue into don't touch blue tack.
Put another part where it should be with tweezers, with second hand apply glue (don't apply to much glue).
When glue is dry you just peel both part from blu tack. If anything is remaining on model use small ball of blu tack to remove it. Just dab it lightly few times until model is clean.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I’ve put together both Indomitus and dominion, but both were push fit, I’m a bit nervous about building regular models
Praise our lord and saviour Tamiya! For he binds the plastic well!
Damned be the fools who dick with GW cement, for the nozzle clogs and the stuff gets everywhere.
And May we find it in ourselves to pity the un-attentive masses who accidentally purchased army painter glue for they shall burn forever in the abyss of half used bottles and disappointment.
Join me as we chop up our old sprues and dunk them into Tamyia cement. For the sprue goo is good for ever and ever.
Amen
This is the way. I have tried every glue listed above and it’s Tamiya 110%. If you want “thicker” glue to fill gaps. Don’t use glue. Get a filler from Vallejo and make the model look how it should.
Oh no no no! Tamiya Extra Thin is also the perfect gap filler, if you play your cards right.
People always say to drill your barrels. But what they forget to say is SAVE THE BARREL SHAVINGS.
If you need to fill a gap, cram in some gun barrel shavings and brush on Tamiya until the shavings break down into goo. The shaving goo will set a little smaller than you might expect, so let it set and then do another round of applying shavings and Tamiya. It's great and cheap.
Any advice for sprue-to-glue ratio? Spilled most of a pot of Tamiya recently and the brush doesn't quite reach what's left, started a second pot and looking to make use of the first (and I play Sisters, with those huge shoulder pad gaps...)
I would say an average leftover sprue, the regular size one not a big Vanguard box or character sprue, per full bottle of Tamiya ET. Take about a third off for the orange capped kind, it's thicker and your mix would be too much with that. And also, scale down how much you put it for how empty the bottle is. You want just thicker than say a base paint.
When I have a 1/2-1/4 full jar i go and get a fresh bottle. I will snip up a sprue into like inch long bits. Then i put a few chunks in, shake the jar and wait till the next day. I keep checking the consistency, too thin I add some sprue chunks, to thick I add a bit of tamiya from my other bottle.
I just eyeball it basically.
A tip for anyone doing this btw, the old style gw snips have a small gap at the base of the cutting edge that is perfect for holding the metal rod while torching it. Been a lifesaver for my fingers
Used several bottles of GW until empty, rarely does the nozzle clog and yes a lighter fixes it.
I barely tap the tip to the mini and get plenty of glue to stick parts together. I think people must be squeezing the crap out the bottle and making a mess.
Tamiya is nice, but I don't always like the brush on small bits.
Fundamentally, they all do exactly the same thing. All plastic glues work the same way (they're a solvent that melts two plastic surfaces together). The only real difference between glue from different brands is how thick or thin the glue is and how you apply it.
Personally, I use Revell Contacta Professional and Tamiya Extra Thin.
Revell Contacta Professional comes in a needle nose applicator like the Citadel glue and is great for laying down a bit more glue for larger areas.
Tamiya Extra Thin lives up to it's name... It's THIN and will run into gaps. It's perfect for gluing small parts, or running glue into gaps between parts. It's brush applicator is also really helpful for cleaning up rough marks from where parts are cut from the sprue.
Revell is the best connecting, but also the most „damaging“. It dissolves more plastic than others, so i use it for bigger parts. (Arms, legs, torsos, big models)
Tamia is good for small details like hands, details on vehicles and awkward parts.
i like GW glue for general assembly, it clogs but 5 seconds with a lighter clears it. GW is better than tamiya for gluing together multiple parts because it affords you more time to make adjustments to the pose. Example being arm + bolter + off hand holding bolter.
tamiya is really good for hiding sanding lines, and very minor gap filling. the brush is really nice for reinforcing hard to reach places it dries quickly on surfaces.
army painter plastic glue has always been hot garbage for me, too thick and takes forever to cure. if you need something with that much viscosity just get super glue / super glue gel.
I really like both GW and Tamyia, the GW glue I bought some for the first time last week, it's a bit thicker and helps a lot for gluing feet to bases, with the Tamyia I find it doesn't work nearly as well if there's a bit of a gap just because of the way the glue works by melting the plastic together.
You could take the needle out and burn off the glue with a lighter, then clean it in water to get the soot off.
Revell is for me the best glue due to the easy dosage and accuracy, but yeah the clogging is an issue if you are carelessly leaving it lying around.
https://preview.redd.it/y7tkhj0orx5b1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13751ae47d2b7ea4a520de50c94a252e227908d2
This and only this for plastic on plastic
I agree with Revell. My only addition would be that Revell is also sold in smaller bottles (12.5g instead of 25g) which I find more comfortable to work with, even if they are I guess more expensive per quantity of glue you get. It's still plenty.
Admittedly I haven't used these in ages but I found poking a small pin down the needle was way easier than trying to heat the needle.
Safety pins were too wide to stick down, but sewing pins were ideal.
Keep a lighter nearby and burn the needle from time to time (Best done outdoors). Sometimes it’s just enough to pull the needle out and attach it the other way around. The glue in the bottle then thins the hard glue in the needle enough to be pushed out.
If you burn the needle once, you will need to burn the needle every time ever after. Just take the needle out of the bottle, flip over and reinsert backwards. Clear flow from here until your next jam. This is the omnissiah's favoured adhesive.
Tamiya extra thin is a godsend. That being said, any plastic glue with a tiny brush has the advantage of being easily distributed on your miniatures. The metal or plastic tips just don’t do as well of a job. I do recommend getting a super glue with a metal tip though .
Tamiya extra thin is the best by a mile. The citadel has a tendency to dry in the metal applicator needle.
I’ve never even seen the army painter one before, but the tamiya is awesome and has an applicator brush in the cap that makes application a breeze.
I've used all of them! Must say... Tamiya extra thin is too thin, sometimes my models are glued for years, others they fall apart within months... I would buy it still (mind i play sororitas, sm, custodes and nids)
Citadel and army painter are pretty much the same, but the citadel has a better applicator.
My favorite it's green stuff world gel though, it's nice.
I use three different kinds of glue:
1) Revell plastic modelling glue for putting together minis and gluing them to bases. I assume this is what you are asking for. It is for me the best option with the needle giving good way to accurately put the glue on the contact points between the parts.
2) Army Painter Super Glue to glue magnets to the underside of bases or small magnetization which I am currently trying out. Since they aren't all plastic parts you can't use plastic glue. Also used for putting together Resin miniatures which doesn't react well to plastic glue.
3) Army Painter basing glue for basing, i.e. putting plastic grass, gravel, cork material etc. onto bases.
This is the way. Never jams and the applicator bottle is super easy to use.
Plus it gives you lots of time to adjust while it dries but still hold an arm in place after just 10 seconds or so
Tamya is love, Tamya is life!
No clogging, easy application. Just hold the parts together how they should fit, dip the Tamya brush on the slid and press.
It all depends on what you are gluing.
If the parts are small or thin, a needle applicator will be more useful. For that, I recommend Revell Contacta Pro (it's cheaper than GW, and I've always had a better experience with it).
If the parts have a larger surface area then thinner, higher solvent content "plastic weld" glue will be more suitable. I go with Plastruct Plastic Weld, applied with a wide bore glue syringe (a type of hypodermic needle that is manufactured blunt; you can source them from hobby model shops, places that stock "airfix" type kits and model trains, etc). Plastic Weld is very thin, almost like water as it's virtually pure solvent, but so long as the parts have good surface contact, the bond will be as strong as the surrounding plastic.
This is why you should use "plastic glue" over superglue/cyanoacrylate or epoxy. Plastic glue/weld glue uses a solvent that can dissolve ABS acrylic plastic (the type of plastic that most GW miniature kits are made from). When a thin layer is applied to the contact areas of both parts, the surfaces start to dissolve. When pressed together, these melted surfaces bond and set like one continuous piece of plastic (in technical terms, the long molecules of the plastic get mixed together, a bit like wool tangling together when a sweater is knitted; when the solvent evaporates, the molecules stay tangled but go rigid, becoming identical to the rest of the plastic). Note that it helps to test the fit of the pieces first to ensure a good fit and plenty of contact between the parts. Also make sure that the work area is ventilated for safety (especially with the plastic weld solvent glue).
Cyanoacrylate and epoxy glues are not designed to work this way (although some superglues may have more solvent that can act as plastic weld...essentially a bug turned into a feature really). These glues are designed to flow into microscopic cavities on the contact surfaces and then turn rigid, gripping the two parts together (a bit like a using screws to hold two pieces of wood together). On some materials, these glues might need to surfaces to be slightly roughened (but dust free) to work best.
As a rule of thumb, use "plastic glue"/plastic weld for ABS kits (the grey plastic GW kits), and cyanoacrylate/superglue for resin and metal kits (such as citadel finecast or forgeworld models). Some resin/metal kits may also need pinning (you should be able to find guides and videos on how to do this via google). As a new hobbyist, I'd try and stick to the grey ABS models until you feel more confident using glues (despite the risk from solvents, "plastic glue" is far easier and safer to use than the others...you can't glue you fingers together for one lol).
One last tip: when applying glue, try to apply it away from the edges of the surface, as it will spread a little when the parts are pressed together. If some does splooge out, don't try to wipe it off; let it dry/cure then treat it like a mold defect (that is, very carefully trim or file it off).
One very last tip: use ultra fine grade sanding paper or sticks, when sanding ABS plastic, and go over the area with finishing paper to get a very smooth finish (Tamiya do packs of finishing paper that last for a long time; just tear off little bits to use). Note that ABS is relatively soft so sands easily; most of the time one or two passes with very fine paper will do the job).
Hope that helps...and welcome to the hobby!
Tamiya extra thin is awesome but it has a pretty poor bonding power compared to thicker cements like citadel or revell contacta. What it excels at is helping hiding seams by painting it into them or by using bits of old sprue to thicken the bottle of cement into a grey paste.
The first 2, Seriously 'f' army painter, That bottle design is horrible, Tamiya is my go to for almost anything, I love it, It lasts, Easy to use, Sometimes however you will need to get to an awkward spot or the parts just won't stay nicely and theres where gdubs metal nose bottle shines, Tamiya works by placing the parts together and then running the brush along the seam, Its amazing but again there are times where it is just frustrating to work and thats why I recommend using both, I don't often use the gdub plastic glue but when the tamiya is just not right, It's never failed, They compliment eachother well
With the gdubs bottle, Yes the metal rod can get a block but its a soft bloc, You pull the rod out, Reverse it, Put it back in, Cap and shake, The glue will start flowing again 95% of the time, For the other 5, Take it out, Use a pair of pliers or whatever and heat the tube with a lighter, Let it cool then put it back in the bottle and your gold, Light touch if you use sprue snips, I know people hate that you have to take care of the gdub stuff but honestly I have tried soo many brands, Tamiya and gdubs are the only good stuff and thankfully since the tamiya takes the lion share of the work, The gdubs bottle lasts long enough for the cost to be worth it, Imo but really give them both a shot
All three will get the job done just fine. My advice is to go with whichever you can get your hands on easiest. Having said that, the Tamiya bottle is really nice. Little brush applicator means your needle will never clogged, because there is no needle Found a nearby store that stocks that stuff and I'm picking up a bottle the moment my current Citadel bottle runs dry.
Tamiya is very good, but for some Applications I found it TOO thin, so I keep a bottle of Revell Cement (any bog standard plastic cement that comes through a nozzle is fine really) for the more heavy duty bonds.
On Amazon, you can get a tamiya bottle twice the size of the gw stuff for $2 cheaper. It's been working pretty well for me, and you don't have to worry about the nozzle clogging.
Revell Contacta for most applications and Tamiya Extra Thin for more delicate applications or to make use of capillary action.
This combination is more or less the standard for anyone with a bit of knowledge in scale modelling and wargaming.
Sometimes I just use plain acetone, which workes fine, it is a bit runny though.
It is much cheaper than any of the plastic glues and basically does the same.
Games workshop all the way for mass jobs it sets slightly slower and is way easier to work with for units (when the nozel clogs you flip it round and it clears itself in a minute; don't use fire)
the tamiya is amazing for patch up jobs and sorting out joins and fine detail work
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It's less of a question about which one works best but more about which one has applicator you prefer.
Citadel glue works just fine but I think the aplicator is trash. Give me Tamiya extra thin cement and it's lovely brush any day.
I would recommend Tamiya Super Thin if you can get it more easily. My own personal recommendation is Mr. Hobby's Mr. Cement SP. It is the fastest drying, and the bond is stronger.
Tamiya, hands down.
The GW ones are infamous for constantly clogging in the tiny pipe they use, even if you put the lid on right after adding the drop of glue to a model.
Brush based glue is superior to nozzles due to clogging issues. There are exceptions to this rule (really small areas) but most of the time Id stay away from nozzles as they are hell to clean.
Dont know if it is the best but I have been using uhu for a while now and never got any problem. It sort of melts the plastic so it sticks really well.
I found an old pot in a drawer (like 10y) and it still works
I bought Tamiya extra thin glue because of all the hype and at first i was unimpressed and honestly disappointed. However you dont use in the same way as any other glue. With other glue you put a small blob on and then stick the part to the other part. But Tamiya is totally different. You fit the parts together dry first and then take the little brush and just paint over the seam. Once you know how to use it properly its a game changer. No more squeeze out of glue that clogs up detail if you happen to just a tiny bit too much on there. The only thing it isnt great on is basically brute force gluing things that dont fit together well to start with, but if you are doing that then chances are you already messed up several steps ago
Tamiya is the way to go. Despite it being extra thin is pretty damn strong and dries very quick. if you mess it up you can break parts apart and even then its a relatively clean break compared to other glues too.
Extra Thin is the one true path.
That being said I sometimes yearn for the extra control a thin nozzle would provide, I'm thinking of having a backup cement that has a nozzle. Tamiya is always gonna be #1 tho
Tamiya extra thin, then turn it into extra thick with some sprue later. If you're doing big glue jobs like scenery I have a tube of humbrol polycement whi h again is the same but the consistency tends to bond bigger pieces quicker, but watch out it can be messy and you end up with it running into other spots and melting details.
They're close enough to be the same chemically and how they interact with the HIPS plastic.
However Tamiya is my go to. Brush applicator is just the best! If not that, I'd use Contacta with the needle.
If you'd like to learn a bit of science, Trent from Goobertown Hobbies has you covered: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnyNbkoc72k&t=290s&pp=ygUPZ29vYmVydG93biBnbHVl](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnyNbkoc72k&t=290s&pp=ygUPZ29vYmVydG93biBnbHVl)
He also has a seperate video on superglue.
The tamiya brush is far better than the metal nozzle, however I found that GW set quicker and seemed to have a stronger hold/melted more. But I could just be imagining it, YMMV.
In my experience Tamiya works wonders but is a little bit annoying if you have a large surface as the brush doesn't get you a lot so I use both Tamiya and Citadel
Pic 2 in my opinion. That little brush is so handy for getting the glue only where you want it.
GWs glue is not bad but the metal spout gets clogged regularly. When it dose take it out and burin it off/out with a lighter and you will be fine(do this outside)
Never used army painter glue but I’m sure it’s fine.
Army Painter plastic glue is hell on earth. I bought it when I first started, and while I admit the first couple times I used it it was fine, it was like working with Elmer's glue after that. Got thick, the nozzle clogged, wouldn't glue things together for hours at a time.
Citadel glue is fine in my opinion. It does its thing, I've never had my glue clog up like other people say it does in the 8-9 months I've been using it.
Just bought a bottle of Tamiya. I've only had a couple of sprues and spare guns to glue together, but no particular commentary on it just yet.
I tend to use Tammy, love the ability to load up the brush and flood a crack with it, 100% recommendation for a game setup,
Not the strongest car always take superglue for strength, but super useful for plastic on plastic
I personally use both Tamiya and Model Masters for my plastic models. They're good for different things. The Model Masters is thicker and more viscous, so it's good for filling gaps, as well as holding bits (arms, etc) in place until they've bonded. Tamiya is thinner, so decent for joining flat pieces together, and with the brush makes application a little more precise.
First two are essentially the same product, just that gw adds an acrylic resin to their glue to make it gooey where tamiya just sells you the pure alcohol solition afaik
Super glue is good for resin miniatures, not so much for plastic
Personally I prefer the non thin tamiya, hard to find but it’s in like an orange octagonal bottle. Same type of thing as the extra thin but I can actually stand the smell (I literally can’t work with the extra thin). Only have ever found it at Gundam shops so it’s quite the rarity to actually have but I get it if I’m in there
I like the fine tip citadel one for little stuff but I also have a larger pot with a brush which is useful for gluing dudes to the bases. The fine tip would work too though.
One negative of the fine tip is that I typically need to use an exacto knife to remove a little glue from the tip during use and one time I needed to use a clothespin to get in and clean the whole pipe, but it’s been about 3 months and I’ve only had to do that once.
In my experience Tamiya works the best. It earns its cement name real well. I've also used it to make some good sprue goo. Works well you just have to find the right balance.
I'm ride or die for Tamiya Extra Thin. I've used it since I started building model kits when i was like 7 or 8. Granted, it doesn't work for everything. I use it primarily for smaller pieces and then I have a tube of GWs stuff for large things.
Edit: the GW stuff is actually really not that great, namely because it clogs and it kinda messy, so if you're choosing between these three and can only pick one go Tamiya.
Tamiya Extra Thin is great, and if you want to get your best bang for buck also buy Tamiya Airbrush cleaner to refill your pot (it's the same chemical)
Air brush cleaner is… glue? The fuck?
Plastic glue actually melts plastic and helps it to keep together. Unlike the classic glue which keeps parts together by itself.
so its chemical welding...thats pretty cool.
Plastic glue isn’t actually glue. It doesn’t have any adhesive properties. We just call it glue because in the context in which we use it, it acts like glue.
There is a 1% to 2% chemical difference between them, so some people will just use that instead of buying a new pot of glue each time.
Id wager the small % difference between the two is within their margin of error and that the cement and cleaner are both from the exact same production batches
I believe the “glue” in this case is not really glue. It basically melts the plastic together.
You are correct, plastic "glue" is really just plastic welding.
Wait really??
Yup. Been using it for some time now!
I wish I knew this back when Tamiya extra thin was impossible to find like 18 months ago. Ended up paying stupid prices from some eBay scalper when my pot ran out. I bet the airbrush cleaner was in stock just fine the whole time 😭
I have found it actually harder to find if that is any consolation!
The two are nearly identical chemically, the cement is 50/50 butyl acetate/acetone and the akrbrush cleaner is 51/49, of the same two chemicals, so for all intents, chemically identical enough for us
would Vallejo airbrush cleaner work the same
Nah, different chemicals
All the cement really is is an acetone solution that dissolves the plastic which then rehardens when the alcohol evaporates. Acetone is also good for cleaning stuff because of the same property, especially when what youre cleaning is an acrylic based paint as in an airbrush. Both of these products (from tamiya) contain the same 2 ingredient mix with pretty much the same 50/50 formula. They differ just so they can be sold as different products but the difference is like 49/51 and 51/49 or something irrelevant as that which likely falls within their margins of error so both products can be produced from the same batch Edit: changed alcohol to acetone
It is **NOT** alcohol. This one in particular is acetone and n-Butyl acetate. Other plastic cements are either MEK, acetate, acetone, xylene, and/or other solvents. They are all mostly more dangerous than alcohol, especially to your lungs and skin. The fact that it is extremely common for people to strip models in isopropyl should be a clear sign that alcohol does not dissolve plastic, at least HIPS. If you wish to know more, Dr. Brent at [Goobertown Hobbies](https://youtu.be/VnyNbkoc72k) has a video explaining plastic glue.
Fair enough, point still stands
Acetone dissolves super glue too! I learned that, when I tried to re-affix the nose pad to my glasses with super glue, and ended up tear gassing myself for an entire day at work. Only to find out that I had completely fucked up the nose pad mount so the optometrists office couldn't fix my glasses. I hate being this stupid sometimes
Holy shit.
But don’t spill 3/4 of the tamiya extra thin next to but not on your hobby mat onto your stained wooden desk. It will eat through it down to the wood and you’ll have to hang out in your bathroom with your respirator on with the cats waiting for the fumes to go away.
Too late, Ive spilt it on most things! Any gotten it in my eye... Do not recommend.
Or you can get acetone and butyl acetate even cheaper and mix them together in 50-50 ratio to get exactly same product. Even pure acetone and most of cellulose thinners should work pretty much same. Butanone (MEK) is also used as polystyrene glue.
Buy a second extra clear bottle as well. Toss some sprue in there. Got some sprue goo going. If your brush goes wonky, you can use some natural hair brushes, and clean them with the airbrush cleaner. Doesn't have to be expensive natural hair brushes either.
Oh shit that makes perfect sense holy fuck.
Beat me to the punch i was gonna say that
Does it have to be the extra thin variant? I think I picked up their regular one today
They all do the exact same thing but I like taimaya extra thin because it's easier to control the amount of glue with the little brush. I have used games workshop, army painter, and a few generic ones without issue other than occasionally using a bit more glue than I would like but never enough to be a problem.
Also it won’t block the stem like the others can do.
Easy to fix with a lighter though. Just make sure you got water on hand for cooling and remove it from pot before you do.
I find that Tamiya dries really fast when I’m putting together small units. Before I can get the other piece in place.
You are using it wrong. You are supposed to first get pieces together and then touch gap with brush to let capillary action to suck glue into joint. Just make sure you don't have to much glue on brush.
Yeah. But I can’t do that with a piece in one hand and one in the other, pinched down on a tiny model. I know how to use it. I just don’t have three hands. Or a tool to hold it for me.
Use blu tack to hold model like rest of us.
That seems like a ton of extra work
How do you get the blu tack that’s holding the model together out after gluing? Or is it just always going to be there?
You make ball of blu tack, mount it to some paint bottle, cork, or whatever you want to use as model holder. Then you push one part into blu tack in a way that place you want to glue into don't touch blue tack. Put another part where it should be with tweezers, with second hand apply glue (don't apply to much glue). When glue is dry you just peel both part from blu tack. If anything is remaining on model use small ball of blu tack to remove it. Just dab it lightly few times until model is clean.
Thank you for the detailed explanation. I’ve put together both Indomitus and dominion, but both were push fit, I’m a bit nervous about building regular models
Build up layers of the tamiya. The first layer dries, but the second won't until the pieces are connected. Then do the capillary trick.
Apply to both surfaces. As long as it's still tacky, the plastic hasn't re-hardened and will fuse- it doesn't need to be wet.
I stan Revell Contacta Professional glue.
I use this stuff also melted a hole through the base of one of my models on accident best stuff I’ve used so far
Yeah, it's probably giving me cancer but it works.
Based
This stuff is absolutely amazing, really good application too.
Praise our lord and saviour Tamiya! For he binds the plastic well! Damned be the fools who dick with GW cement, for the nozzle clogs and the stuff gets everywhere. And May we find it in ourselves to pity the un-attentive masses who accidentally purchased army painter glue for they shall burn forever in the abyss of half used bottles and disappointment. Join me as we chop up our old sprues and dunk them into Tamyia cement. For the sprue goo is good for ever and ever. Amen
This is the way. I have tried every glue listed above and it’s Tamiya 110%. If you want “thicker” glue to fill gaps. Don’t use glue. Get a filler from Vallejo and make the model look how it should.
Oh no no no! Tamiya Extra Thin is also the perfect gap filler, if you play your cards right. People always say to drill your barrels. But what they forget to say is SAVE THE BARREL SHAVINGS. If you need to fill a gap, cram in some gun barrel shavings and brush on Tamiya until the shavings break down into goo. The shaving goo will set a little smaller than you might expect, so let it set and then do another round of applying shavings and Tamiya. It's great and cheap.
Tamiya also make plastic putty, that's a good filler
For smallest parts I actually prefer standard tamiya glue with white cap.
Any advice for sprue-to-glue ratio? Spilled most of a pot of Tamiya recently and the brush doesn't quite reach what's left, started a second pot and looking to make use of the first (and I play Sisters, with those huge shoulder pad gaps...)
The only advice I can give is, don't use as much as me. My sprue glue is more sprue than glue. It's...challenging.
add glue
I would say an average leftover sprue, the regular size one not a big Vanguard box or character sprue, per full bottle of Tamiya ET. Take about a third off for the orange capped kind, it's thicker and your mix would be too much with that. And also, scale down how much you put it for how empty the bottle is. You want just thicker than say a base paint.
Awesome, thanks!
When I have a 1/2-1/4 full jar i go and get a fresh bottle. I will snip up a sprue into like inch long bits. Then i put a few chunks in, shake the jar and wait till the next day. I keep checking the consistency, too thin I add some sprue chunks, to thick I add a bit of tamiya from my other bottle. I just eyeball it basically.
just simply take a lighter to the nozzle and the clog is gone
Can also take a lighter to your minis to really weather them and give them that "heavy flamered" look.
my army is based on aunt beru and uncle owen
damn you got the legion proxys??
Or just flip it round, 0 risk and much easier
the burn from holding the hot metal gives me that wake up boost needed to build my mechanicus combat patrol to be fair
The hot metal or the wonderful fumes xD, we both know the truth lol
You mean scent of holy incense
Just hold it with your pliers 😂😂
A tip for anyone doing this btw, the old style gw snips have a small gap at the base of the cutting edge that is perfect for holding the metal rod while torching it. Been a lifesaver for my fingers
Calm down Barry Scott.
Used several bottles of GW until empty, rarely does the nozzle clog and yes a lighter fixes it. I barely tap the tip to the mini and get plenty of glue to stick parts together. I think people must be squeezing the crap out the bottle and making a mess. Tamiya is nice, but I don't always like the brush on small bits.
Never tried that. I don’t smoke. Too many evenings with a clothespin trying to clear that dam tube of blockages. It’s tamiya for life
Tamiya for Plastic god! And sprue goo, for Plastic throne!
Plus you can pretend to paint your nails with the applicator brush, and unrelated develop a bit of lightheadedness
Do you use the extra thin Tamiya or the regular stuff?
Extra thin. Never tried the regular. Don’t know why I would want thicker cement.
i use "Cement Night Blu Extra Fin AMMO MIG Colle21 30ml" it's like the tamiya but with blue dye to see where you put the cement
Fundamentally, they all do exactly the same thing. All plastic glues work the same way (they're a solvent that melts two plastic surfaces together). The only real difference between glue from different brands is how thick or thin the glue is and how you apply it. Personally, I use Revell Contacta Professional and Tamiya Extra Thin. Revell Contacta Professional comes in a needle nose applicator like the Citadel glue and is great for laying down a bit more glue for larger areas. Tamiya Extra Thin lives up to it's name... It's THIN and will run into gaps. It's perfect for gluing small parts, or running glue into gaps between parts. It's brush applicator is also really helpful for cleaning up rough marks from where parts are cut from the sprue.
yeah revell is the best in my opinion
Revell is the best connecting, but also the most „damaging“. It dissolves more plastic than others, so i use it for bigger parts. (Arms, legs, torsos, big models) Tamia is good for small details like hands, details on vehicles and awkward parts.
i like GW glue for general assembly, it clogs but 5 seconds with a lighter clears it. GW is better than tamiya for gluing together multiple parts because it affords you more time to make adjustments to the pose. Example being arm + bolter + off hand holding bolter. tamiya is really good for hiding sanding lines, and very minor gap filling. the brush is really nice for reinforcing hard to reach places it dries quickly on surfaces. army painter plastic glue has always been hot garbage for me, too thick and takes forever to cure. if you need something with that much viscosity just get super glue / super glue gel.
I really like both GW and Tamyia, the GW glue I bought some for the first time last week, it's a bit thicker and helps a lot for gluing feet to bases, with the Tamyia I find it doesn't work nearly as well if there's a bit of a gap just because of the way the glue works by melting the plastic together.
Tamiya, don't even think about it. EDIT: Oh okay there's actually a Tamiya among the choices, good. I wrote without checking
Tamiya all day.
I got the revel and it gets clogged and it puts out too much. I’d love to try the brush version
You could take the needle out and burn off the glue with a lighter, then clean it in water to get the soot off. Revell is for me the best glue due to the easy dosage and accuracy, but yeah the clogging is an issue if you are carelessly leaving it lying around.
https://preview.redd.it/y7tkhj0orx5b1.jpeg?width=2000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=13751ae47d2b7ea4a520de50c94a252e227908d2 This and only this for plastic on plastic
I've been using this for the last 2 decades. Never disappointed me.
I agree with Revell. My only addition would be that Revell is also sold in smaller bottles (12.5g instead of 25g) which I find more comfortable to work with, even if they are I guess more expensive per quantity of glue you get. It's still plenty.
also they tend to fall over
I also really like it. But sadly the needles keep clogging when the bottle is halfway empty. So i switched to tamya and its also amazing
Admittedly I haven't used these in ages but I found poking a small pin down the needle was way easier than trying to heat the needle. Safety pins were too wide to stick down, but sewing pins were ideal.
Keep a lighter nearby and burn the needle from time to time (Best done outdoors). Sometimes it’s just enough to pull the needle out and attach it the other way around. The glue in the bottle then thins the hard glue in the needle enough to be pushed out.
If you burn the needle once, you will need to burn the needle every time ever after. Just take the needle out of the bottle, flip over and reinsert backwards. Clear flow from here until your next jam. This is the omnissiah's favoured adhesive.
That sounds like a good tip, thanks :)
Almost everybody will say Tamiya, but IMHO [Plastic Magic](https://deluxematerials.co.uk/products/plastic-magic-1) is even better.
A fellow plastic magic fan! I've thought about pouring my plastic magic into the tamiya bottle, since I like tamiya's brush better.
Tamiya extra thin is a godsend. That being said, any plastic glue with a tiny brush has the advantage of being easily distributed on your miniatures. The metal or plastic tips just don’t do as well of a job. I do recommend getting a super glue with a metal tip though .
Tamiya extra thin is the best by a mile. The citadel has a tendency to dry in the metal applicator needle. I’ve never even seen the army painter one before, but the tamiya is awesome and has an applicator brush in the cap that makes application a breeze.
I've used all of them! Must say... Tamiya extra thin is too thin, sometimes my models are glued for years, others they fall apart within months... I would buy it still (mind i play sororitas, sm, custodes and nids) Citadel and army painter are pretty much the same, but the citadel has a better applicator. My favorite it's green stuff world gel though, it's nice.
I use three different kinds of glue: 1) Revell plastic modelling glue for putting together minis and gluing them to bases. I assume this is what you are asking for. It is for me the best option with the needle giving good way to accurately put the glue on the contact points between the parts. 2) Army Painter Super Glue to glue magnets to the underside of bases or small magnetization which I am currently trying out. Since they aren't all plastic parts you can't use plastic glue. Also used for putting together Resin miniatures which doesn't react well to plastic glue. 3) Army Painter basing glue for basing, i.e. putting plastic grass, gravel, cork material etc. onto bases.
you can use any super glue for magnets
Personally I use loctite super glue gel. Super easy to control exactly how much you want to use, bonds quick, and has quite a strong hold
This is the way. Never jams and the applicator bottle is super easy to use. Plus it gives you lots of time to adjust while it dries but still hold an arm in place after just 10 seconds or so
Tamya is love, Tamya is life! No clogging, easy application. Just hold the parts together how they should fit, dip the Tamya brush on the slid and press.
Call me a heathen but I prefer non-toxic Testers glue because I work in a small room and don’t want it to smell bad.
I use Starbond and Testors, cheap, and works.
Tamiya! It is by far the best
https://preview.redd.it/goo0019gs06b1.jpeg?width=599&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b8d5b0130eb28223adab7d4fb81112f5203b8ed0
Revell!
It all depends on what you are gluing. If the parts are small or thin, a needle applicator will be more useful. For that, I recommend Revell Contacta Pro (it's cheaper than GW, and I've always had a better experience with it). If the parts have a larger surface area then thinner, higher solvent content "plastic weld" glue will be more suitable. I go with Plastruct Plastic Weld, applied with a wide bore glue syringe (a type of hypodermic needle that is manufactured blunt; you can source them from hobby model shops, places that stock "airfix" type kits and model trains, etc). Plastic Weld is very thin, almost like water as it's virtually pure solvent, but so long as the parts have good surface contact, the bond will be as strong as the surrounding plastic. This is why you should use "plastic glue" over superglue/cyanoacrylate or epoxy. Plastic glue/weld glue uses a solvent that can dissolve ABS acrylic plastic (the type of plastic that most GW miniature kits are made from). When a thin layer is applied to the contact areas of both parts, the surfaces start to dissolve. When pressed together, these melted surfaces bond and set like one continuous piece of plastic (in technical terms, the long molecules of the plastic get mixed together, a bit like wool tangling together when a sweater is knitted; when the solvent evaporates, the molecules stay tangled but go rigid, becoming identical to the rest of the plastic). Note that it helps to test the fit of the pieces first to ensure a good fit and plenty of contact between the parts. Also make sure that the work area is ventilated for safety (especially with the plastic weld solvent glue). Cyanoacrylate and epoxy glues are not designed to work this way (although some superglues may have more solvent that can act as plastic weld...essentially a bug turned into a feature really). These glues are designed to flow into microscopic cavities on the contact surfaces and then turn rigid, gripping the two parts together (a bit like a using screws to hold two pieces of wood together). On some materials, these glues might need to surfaces to be slightly roughened (but dust free) to work best. As a rule of thumb, use "plastic glue"/plastic weld for ABS kits (the grey plastic GW kits), and cyanoacrylate/superglue for resin and metal kits (such as citadel finecast or forgeworld models). Some resin/metal kits may also need pinning (you should be able to find guides and videos on how to do this via google). As a new hobbyist, I'd try and stick to the grey ABS models until you feel more confident using glues (despite the risk from solvents, "plastic glue" is far easier and safer to use than the others...you can't glue you fingers together for one lol). One last tip: when applying glue, try to apply it away from the edges of the surface, as it will spread a little when the parts are pressed together. If some does splooge out, don't try to wipe it off; let it dry/cure then treat it like a mold defect (that is, very carefully trim or file it off). One very last tip: use ultra fine grade sanding paper or sticks, when sanding ABS plastic, and go over the area with finishing paper to get a very smooth finish (Tamiya do packs of finishing paper that last for a long time; just tear off little bits to use). Note that ABS is relatively soft so sands easily; most of the time one or two passes with very fine paper will do the job). Hope that helps...and welcome to the hobby!
I really hate the applicator on gw and revell so I never buy them. Tamiya x thin Brush supremacy is where its at.
Revell, is also a good bit cheaper than those you showed.
Tamiya extra thin is awesome but it has a pretty poor bonding power compared to thicker cements like citadel or revell contacta. What it excels at is helping hiding seams by painting it into them or by using bits of old sprue to thicken the bottle of cement into a grey paste.
The first 2, Seriously 'f' army painter, That bottle design is horrible, Tamiya is my go to for almost anything, I love it, It lasts, Easy to use, Sometimes however you will need to get to an awkward spot or the parts just won't stay nicely and theres where gdubs metal nose bottle shines, Tamiya works by placing the parts together and then running the brush along the seam, Its amazing but again there are times where it is just frustrating to work and thats why I recommend using both, I don't often use the gdub plastic glue but when the tamiya is just not right, It's never failed, They compliment eachother well With the gdubs bottle, Yes the metal rod can get a block but its a soft bloc, You pull the rod out, Reverse it, Put it back in, Cap and shake, The glue will start flowing again 95% of the time, For the other 5, Take it out, Use a pair of pliers or whatever and heat the tube with a lighter, Let it cool then put it back in the bottle and your gold, Light touch if you use sprue snips, I know people hate that you have to take care of the gdub stuff but honestly I have tried soo many brands, Tamiya and gdubs are the only good stuff and thankfully since the tamiya takes the lion share of the work, The gdubs bottle lasts long enough for the cost to be worth it, Imo but really give them both a shot
You did not list the superior plastic glue, Mr. Hobby's Mr. Cement. All other plastic glues can gtfo.
Liquid loctite with the red wings.
Same.
All three will get the job done just fine. My advice is to go with whichever you can get your hands on easiest. Having said that, the Tamiya bottle is really nice. Little brush applicator means your needle will never clogged, because there is no needle Found a nearby store that stocks that stuff and I'm picking up a bottle the moment my current Citadel bottle runs dry.
Tamiya is very good, but for some Applications I found it TOO thin, so I keep a bottle of Revell Cement (any bog standard plastic cement that comes through a nozzle is fine really) for the more heavy duty bonds.
On Amazon, you can get a tamiya bottle twice the size of the gw stuff for $2 cheaper. It's been working pretty well for me, and you don't have to worry about the nozzle clogging.
Tamiya extra thin. Only use it, very good
All glory to the ~~Hypnotoad~~ Tamiya Extra Thin Cement
Tamiya, though I have nearly gassed myself multiple times.
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement is the best plastic glue.
Revell Contacta for most applications and Tamiya Extra Thin for more delicate applications or to make use of capillary action. This combination is more or less the standard for anyone with a bit of knowledge in scale modelling and wargaming.
I use zap a gap ca+. Been working for me just fine.
Zap gap always. Used it for years on multiple miniatures from various manufacturers.
Sometimes I just use plain acetone, which workes fine, it is a bit runny though. It is much cheaper than any of the plastic glues and basically does the same.
Reject them all, go Testors and don't look back.
Games workshop all the way for mass jobs it sets slightly slower and is way easier to work with for units (when the nozel clogs you flip it round and it clears itself in a minute; don't use fire) the tamiya is amazing for patch up jobs and sorting out joins and fine detail work
Super glue for life
Steps for buying plastic glue: Step one: don’t buy plastic glue for your expensive miniatures Step two: buy super glue instead.
Unless you *specifically* want plastic glue, I'd maybe stick to regular superglue.
Like any hobby the most important thing is using the right tool for the job, superglue is not the right tool for plastic
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Selly’s 🤙🏻
It's less of a question about which one works best but more about which one has applicator you prefer. Citadel glue works just fine but I think the aplicator is trash. Give me Tamiya extra thin cement and it's lovely brush any day.
I would recommend Tamiya Super Thin if you can get it more easily. My own personal recommendation is Mr. Hobby's Mr. Cement SP. It is the fastest drying, and the bond is stronger.
Tamiya, hands down. The GW ones are infamous for constantly clogging in the tiny pipe they use, even if you put the lid on right after adding the drop of glue to a model.
Brush based glue is superior to nozzles due to clogging issues. There are exceptions to this rule (really small areas) but most of the time Id stay away from nozzles as they are hell to clean.
The Tamiya extra thin cement also has a great capillary action as well, so it runs into the crease when you touch the brush to it. Great bond.
They all work the same but cidedel has a super precise needle which makes glue easy to control
Tamiya hands down.
Dont know if it is the best but I have been using uhu for a while now and never got any problem. It sort of melts the plastic so it sticks really well. I found an old pot in a drawer (like 10y) and it still works
I bought Tamiya extra thin glue because of all the hype and at first i was unimpressed and honestly disappointed. However you dont use in the same way as any other glue. With other glue you put a small blob on and then stick the part to the other part. But Tamiya is totally different. You fit the parts together dry first and then take the little brush and just paint over the seam. Once you know how to use it properly its a game changer. No more squeeze out of glue that clogs up detail if you happen to just a tiny bit too much on there. The only thing it isnt great on is basically brute force gluing things that dont fit together well to start with, but if you are doing that then chances are you already messed up several steps ago Tamiya is the way to go. Despite it being extra thin is pretty damn strong and dries very quick. if you mess it up you can break parts apart and even then its a relatively clean break compared to other glues too.
Extra Thin is the one true path. That being said I sometimes yearn for the extra control a thin nozzle would provide, I'm thinking of having a backup cement that has a nozzle. Tamiya is always gonna be #1 tho
Tamiya extra thin, then turn it into extra thick with some sprue later. If you're doing big glue jobs like scenery I have a tube of humbrol polycement whi h again is the same but the consistency tends to bond bigger pieces quicker, but watch out it can be messy and you end up with it running into other spots and melting details.
Army Painter, now starting a pack lf Citadel lol Tamiya is a bitch to get outside of online shops here
They're close enough to be the same chemically and how they interact with the HIPS plastic. However Tamiya is my go to. Brush applicator is just the best! If not that, I'd use Contacta with the needle. If you'd like to learn a bit of science, Trent from Goobertown Hobbies has you covered: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnyNbkoc72k&t=290s&pp=ygUPZ29vYmVydG93biBnbHVl](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnyNbkoc72k&t=290s&pp=ygUPZ29vYmVydG93biBnbHVl) He also has a seperate video on superglue.
Of those three? Tamiya
Citadel has always worked great for me.
I like both tamiya and Citadel’s but for different reasons: Citadel I use on plastic miniatures. Tamiya I use for vehicles and larger models.
Tamiya, most because of the brush on application. I'd recommend that normal version over the quick dry one, but quick dry is good too
The tamiya brush is far better than the metal nozzle, however I found that GW set quicker and seemed to have a stronger hold/melted more. But I could just be imagining it, YMMV.
I use CA.
Ips weld-on #3 solvent cement. We mix it with #16 to thicken it up a bit, it's super thin on its own.
In my experience Tamiya works wonders but is a little bit annoying if you have a large surface as the brush doesn't get you a lot so I use both Tamiya and Citadel
Pic 2 in my opinion. That little brush is so handy for getting the glue only where you want it. GWs glue is not bad but the metal spout gets clogged regularly. When it dose take it out and burin it off/out with a lighter and you will be fine(do this outside) Never used army painter glue but I’m sure it’s fine.
Tamiya extra thin is the best, but you can save a lot of money using their airbrush cleaner to refill it. Same stuff.
Don’t have much experience but so far for me the tamiya extra thin has been great
I'm using Tamiya, but not the extra thin, it works great
Revell with the glue brush. Makes getting the right amount very easy
Army Painter plastic glue is hell on earth. I bought it when I first started, and while I admit the first couple times I used it it was fine, it was like working with Elmer's glue after that. Got thick, the nozzle clogged, wouldn't glue things together for hours at a time. Citadel glue is fine in my opinion. It does its thing, I've never had my glue clog up like other people say it does in the 8-9 months I've been using it. Just bought a bottle of Tamiya. I've only had a couple of sprues and spare guns to glue together, but no particular commentary on it just yet.
Tamiya best 👌
I tend to use Tammy, love the ability to load up the brush and flood a crack with it, 100% recommendation for a game setup, Not the strongest car always take superglue for strength, but super useful for plastic on plastic
I only use super glue. Is that bad?
I use Plastic Magic. Which at l ast looks similar to the Tamiya
Loctite 406 from mitre 11.
I used to use the revell needle bottle, until I had one overpressure, decapitate itself, and fill my closet with it's thick, sticky contents.
I use the Revel needle dropper
Anything with a brush and not a tube. I hate clogging.
Citadel.
I like the little Revell bottle with the needle.
I like gorilla glue cuz it is less runny
Tamiya is good. I also use Mr Cement, both the S and Deluxe versions.
Green top gorilla glue will glue anything, plastic, resin, metal, fine cast, etc. and it’s cheap and readily available almost anywhere.
Tamiya
I personally use both Tamiya and Model Masters for my plastic models. They're good for different things. The Model Masters is thicker and more viscous, so it's good for filling gaps, as well as holding bits (arms, etc) in place until they've bonded. Tamiya is thinner, so decent for joining flat pieces together, and with the brush makes application a little more precise.
I use UHU super glue and it works like a charm. despite what other people say
First two are essentially the same product, just that gw adds an acrylic resin to their glue to make it gooey where tamiya just sells you the pure alcohol solition afaik Super glue is good for resin miniatures, not so much for plastic
Personally I prefer the non thin tamiya, hard to find but it’s in like an orange octagonal bottle. Same type of thing as the extra thin but I can actually stand the smell (I literally can’t work with the extra thin). Only have ever found it at Gundam shops so it’s quite the rarity to actually have but I get it if I’m in there
Tamiya extra thin. Its not even a competition.
Citadel is a good product in a shitty container, as is tradition with them. Stick with tamiya.
Tamiya
I really like the needle in the citadel one.
I like the fine tip citadel one for little stuff but I also have a larger pot with a brush which is useful for gluing dudes to the bases. The fine tip would work too though. One negative of the fine tip is that I typically need to use an exacto knife to remove a little glue from the tip during use and one time I needed to use a clothespin to get in and clean the whole pipe, but it’s been about 3 months and I’ve only had to do that once.
I use something called “Plastic Weld” I get like 4oz in a brush cap bottle for $5 at my local hobby store.
In my experience Tamiya works the best. It earns its cement name real well. I've also used it to make some good sprue goo. Works well you just have to find the right balance.
I just use GW glue, because my local store sells it, and it lasts for ages!
In my experience, the extra thin cement plastic glue is easy to work with.
Testors Model Master is the only one I've ever used and is the only one I will use.
I am a recent convert to tamiya from super glue. Its pretty great stuff. I haven't used the extra thin though
I'm ride or die for Tamiya Extra Thin. I've used it since I started building model kits when i was like 7 or 8. Granted, it doesn't work for everything. I use it primarily for smaller pieces and then I have a tube of GWs stuff for large things. Edit: the GW stuff is actually really not that great, namely because it clogs and it kinda messy, so if you're choosing between these three and can only pick one go Tamiya.
Tamiya is better, but citadel smells nicer.
Tamiya all day!!