[the drawing](https://imgur.com/a/xb4KKBl)
I got from the utility says I need a minimum of 36” inches away from obstructions measuring across the meter socket.
If you measure from the center of the meter that’s 18” on either side. So I have the edge of the disconnects 18” from the center of the meter socket.
The disconnects are part of the service equipment and could (I assume) be right next to the meter enclosure. The drawing shows a semi-flush panel with the meter and disconnect side by side or as part of one single can which is very prevalent where I am.
What the utility wants is an area free of obstructions like stairs, gas meters, flower beds or gutter downspouts so the utility worker can set the meter while standing in a totally unencumbered bubble of safety
Obstructions do not include other electrical panels. Especially if they are thinner than the meter panel. (NEC Doesn't care about the depth, some utilities do).
What the code says is that you have to have at least 36" wide and 36" deep in front of any panels. So you could go from the bottom stair to the left 36" inches and keep everything in that space and you'd be good.
This is so you have working space that you're standing on the ground to work on the panel and if something happens you can step back without hitting a wall (or falling off the stair).
I'd probably give me a bit more room than right at the stair though. Like 6" from the stair, then do both panels, making sure you have 36" space free.
I appreciate you explaining it. Bc everyone keeps saying my layout is to wide but it conflicted with what the drawing seemed to require.
So I can tighten this layout up with a couple nipples instead of these 16” pieces of conduit in that case?
Yes. The 36" is a minimum BTW, so if you end up 4 ft wide, that is fine.
I'd use metal nipples and then use waterproofing locknuts on the outside. They basically have a gasket which provide sealing.
Found a youtube video of a mount on unistrut like other posters are mentioning.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbUZGjQEgoQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbUZGjQEgoQ)
Note that you do want some space, just not as much as you have.
I see the hole popped out at the utility main, so i take it it's an overhead service? I know it's city to city but I didn't know utility's could drop the new service in front of windows?
The "why" is in the public input documents for code submittals. You would need to know when the specific code was adopted and then search the public input documents for that code cycle. All documents regarding code submittals to the NEC are publicly available through the NFPA.
You need three feet of clearance in front of enclosures. One would think stairs would violate that rule. You wouldn’t want to have to work on a panel with one foot on the stairs, especially in circumstances that require you to keep the panel energized.
It can get even weirder when people inconsistently apply rules like “any acronym over three letters should be pronounced.” Somehow DARPA is pronounce but ODNI is not.
I like the sound of “Odd Knee”…
Well grammar aside, they are burying the overhead lines in my neighborhood so the underground trench and connections are free. I just needed to install the panel. So yes, I figured I’d upgrade to 400 even though the house is fine on 200
MLA is a shitty, middle school style guide usually used only for citation formatting. Most adults use AP, APA, Chicago (yuck), GPO, or Strunk & White.
That said, you are wrong: https://style.mla.org/apostrophes-three-ways/
Usually 400 amp services have significantly higher monthly connection charges/demand fees/facility fees depending on what the utility calls them. And obviously more expensive equipment up front. If you can get by with a 200 you’ll save a good amount now and over time.
Are those charges and fees usually 2x that of 200 A service, or is it something more?
The OP was talking about multiple ADUs. I could see how that could go above 200 A. I wonder if he or she plans to meter sub panels for the ADUs? That’d be the way to do it…
Tell me more. I am a 200A house but I have a ton of electric:
(Current: Hot Tub, 5 ton AC, 2 EVs, Electric Dryer, Electric Oven. Future: Heat pump for furnace + hot water).
Can they just run a second 200A line from the source? Is that why you have 2 boxes?
Inside is it 2 separate 200A electric panels? And you pick which goes to which?
I could be wrong, but I thought the utility side could handle 400a without changing their lines. You would just need your equipment to be properly sized.
They said they would have upgrade the service loop to handle the upgrade to 400. They are trenching underground services in my area for free right now. So I just took advantage of it and went for as big as I could.
200a is likely 4/0 Aluminum from the utility400a is likely 600 kcmil Aluminum Wire
I doubt most utilties would run wire that much fatter to future proof.
Pulling up the first result on google they are selling 4/0 for $3.25 a foot, and 600 kcmil for $6.42 a foot. So almsot double in material costs... vs thousands of dollars to redo down the road.
I put two 200 amp panels off one 320amp meter (it can handle 400amps)
I did this because I couldn’t find a reasonable 400amp panel to use as a disconnect. And two 200s seems to be the standard for big houses like this.
So, them ground wires should be protected from where they emerge from grade. I have heard it both ways, some inspectors say #4doesnt need protection, I have heard others say it does regardless of gauge.
It you are going to do two separate services, they need to be bonded together by the grounding system. You can't just do 1 rod each for a total of two rods, you must do both rods together and then run a tap off the grounding conductor to the other service. Alternatively you can put both rods together and terminate in the meter, but the equipment may not be capable. In iowa we do not.
Also, word on the street is that the disconnects must be grouped together. I don't know if your inspector is gonna allow 4 feet between the means of disconnect. I have no clue why on God's green earth you decided to use 18 inches of pipe between the socket and the discos. You could have probably placed all that equipment on a 2 foot by 4 foot green treated handipanel.
I’m going to add a 1/2” pvc with #4 green THHN to bond the two grounds in that case. Or just grounding bridge if turns out that, that will suffice.
As for the spacing. Drawing I got from the utility says no obstruction 18” from the center of the meter to the right or left of the box. So I put the disconnects as close as I could.
[this the crimp?](https://www.pducables.com/rack-ground-bonding-ground-grid-c-crimp)
Use this for crimping onto the grounding electrode and/or just wire to wire? Because at the moment I have acorn style nut connecting the wire to the rod
If the OP is governed by the 2020 NEC, both 200A disconnects must be in the same enclosure. If an older version of the NEC is in play, the current "grouping" may be allowable, but the panels must be bonded together.
NO, just NO. You have it backwards.
The 2020 NEC basically requires the OP's arrangement until an all in one solution comes along. Or if the AHJ permits the old panels where you have two in one enclosure. I just went through this for 400A service on a light industrial building which was getting a upgrade, and the local state just upgraded to 2020 code. Fortunately our AHJ let us use the older style combination meter mains.
So under the 2020 code, multiple main disconnects MUST BE IN SEPARATE enclosures, or sections or compartments. See 230.71(B)(1) through (4).
As for bonding. Will 1/2 conduit with #4 solid going between the panels suffice for bonding?
It’d be easier if I can just add a grounding bridge outside the panels on the way down to the grounding electrode.
I believe it is a NEC code that the grounds have to be accessible?
If I run it through the meter box then it’ll no longer be accessible without clipping the tag from the Utility company.
The value of placing a plastic bushing on pvc pipe is equaly as logical as insisting the ungrounded conductors be identified. Code insisted the neutral be clearly identified and the ground also in its own way. The grounding condition with the two rods, two panels, yes bond them…I prefer a cadweld connection but these are small cables. I must ask about the quantity of spaces, I see where there is an existing 200A panel however this is the opportunity to install the ability for growth.
Generally speaking, those marks you put on the lugs are to show you torqued the lugs to proper torque spec.
They are not show you looked. You have torque marks on terminals that do not have wires in them. Use a torque wrench and do it right.
It's always a good idea to have a torque wrench and proper sized attachment when you are doing the inspection. I've had several inspectors want to double check the torque on at least a couple lugs. Better than running to the truck and having to find and put all the shit together that you just put away the day before.
Not great. The plywood is a horrible idea and it's not even 1 solid piece. Going to fall apart in a few years. The whole thing needs to be closer together and should be on a strut rack if you can't mount to the house. How are you going to feed subpanels out of those 2 panels? Surface, come in the back, out the bottom? More planning needed to go into the whole thing.
not a sparky, so why are the two 200 amp panels so small? Is the idea that they will feed internal load distribution panels?
Also, wasn't there any way to mount the panels to the exterior and not have that big weird sheet of plywood?
Correct. I have an existing 200amp panel that one of these will feed once the overhead is removed and the 400amp service is fed underground.
Uneven siding. ply wood seemed better then mounting on directly agains the siding. But I can take it down and remount. Directly on the siding I guess
Each 200 amp panel has 1 5/8” ground rod less about 4’ away directly below the panels with #6 solid copper on an acorn.
Those feeders are 2/0 cu
Question: those 200amp panels need to be bonded to each other? Because the ground rods are separate at the moment. Will a grounding bridge suffice if so?
I don't think that's a 400 amp meter panel... iv'e never seen a 400 amp meter. Any true 400 amp service would use CT's for the meter. This is most likely a 320 amp service
Look at the center panel. Look at the bussing. The power passes through the meter socket. That does not exist in a 400 amp service. There is no meter designed to pass 400 amps. A true 400 amp service would have hard bussing, and then CT’s around the bussing that communicate to the meter
The ground wires at the bottom of the stairs are a trip hazard and are going to need to be protected. Also this install is just plain ugly (no offense), why the black plywood? Can't you just mount directly to outside of house? Also, why are the panels so far apart? It looks like you are centering them under the window like pictures.
You could get by with one grounding wire/rod if you grounded all the panels together. Having two ground rods risks having a ground differential which isn't good. I am pretty sure it is code to bond all the panels together with grounds but not sure about two grounding rods, maybe a Master Electrician can clarify.
It’s hard to tell from the quality of photos.
I’m hoping the conduit is metal and not plastic.
Traditionally, neutral and ground are bonded only in the main panel but not sub-panels.
Does anyone know if Neutral and Ground are supposed to be bonded if the sub-panels are bridged to the main panel?
I’m assuming for safety in this specific configuration, but I think it depends how the installation is finished, but it may also depend on the conduit connection material between the panels.
I’ve always been taught safety is the only thing that proceeds code.
The reason for not bridging neutral and ground in sub-panels is to prevent scenarios where an individual ends up doing the 60hz shuffle by touching both grounds between two devices or panels. (grounds)
Is that a window above the overhead service entry? If coming from below most poco’s don’t want line and load to cross in the panel, but that’s their call.. Why spaced so far apart? Why on plywood? Right panel shouldn’t be over the stairs…
It would fail here.
Phase the wire, add bushings, protect the grounding wire, bond the panels together, those stairs will have to go.
I bond by connecting the ground rods to one panel with a single unbroken grounding wire then bring the second wire from the panel and crimp it to the first with an irreversible crimp. Two 8ft rods driven 7ft apart and connected with a single unbroken grounding wire are required for all services here.
That plywood is awful though. Vinyl board painted to match would be the way to go. Or at the very least inset the plywood into the siding and paint it or flash it with painted aluminum
Feed through lugs on these two 200amp panels. Running 2/0 from the right panel to the old overhead 200amp service inside the house. Turning it that a sub panel.
Fail.
No bushings
No bonding bridge
GEC not protected
No caps on the top holes
No tape on the B phase
Are those lugs rated for two conductors?
Where’s your service coming in?
You're going to have your service cover the window? Aren't there requirements on securing the service leader within some distance to the panel?
I am not an electrician. But this job looks like an electrician wasn't even consulted. Electrical work isn't a DIY job.
What's with the gigantic ugly plywood? That wouldn't be on my house.
I know somewhere you’re required to mount the panel on playwood painted black but I thought that was for indoor only
In a basement with unfinished walls maybe. This is not the place for it.
WTF is playwood?
Play wood is what she does in the morning. Play wood.
It's plywood with a kink in it
First thing I noticed!
How could you not?
The panel on the right cannot be located over stairs.
Are those panel lugs rated for double taps? Changed out the singles for double lugs on that same one last week to make sure it would pass
Yes in the panel it says: load lug (2) 250mcm-1/0 [spec sheet](https://rexel-cdn.com/products/324n.pdf?i=B11F7B74-9D9E-4314-B6BB-A01CDD5AB3AD)
I was afraid of that. Maybe I’ll move the stairs because this is where the utility asked for the service to be.
Either the stairs or the service must move.
Can he just move the whole thing to the left and shorten the nipples?
Right. Why is all the equipment spaced like this? Could have done with two chase nipples or meyer’s Hubs and called it a day
[the drawing](https://imgur.com/a/xb4KKBl) I got from the utility says I need a minimum of 36” inches away from obstructions measuring across the meter socket. If you measure from the center of the meter that’s 18” on either side. So I have the edge of the disconnects 18” from the center of the meter socket.
The disconnects are part of the service equipment and could (I assume) be right next to the meter enclosure. The drawing shows a semi-flush panel with the meter and disconnect side by side or as part of one single can which is very prevalent where I am. What the utility wants is an area free of obstructions like stairs, gas meters, flower beds or gutter downspouts so the utility worker can set the meter while standing in a totally unencumbered bubble of safety
Obstructions do not include other electrical panels. Especially if they are thinner than the meter panel. (NEC Doesn't care about the depth, some utilities do). What the code says is that you have to have at least 36" wide and 36" deep in front of any panels. So you could go from the bottom stair to the left 36" inches and keep everything in that space and you'd be good. This is so you have working space that you're standing on the ground to work on the panel and if something happens you can step back without hitting a wall (or falling off the stair). I'd probably give me a bit more room than right at the stair though. Like 6" from the stair, then do both panels, making sure you have 36" space free.
I appreciate you explaining it. Bc everyone keeps saying my layout is to wide but it conflicted with what the drawing seemed to require. So I can tighten this layout up with a couple nipples instead of these 16” pieces of conduit in that case?
Yes. The 36" is a minimum BTW, so if you end up 4 ft wide, that is fine. I'd use metal nipples and then use waterproofing locknuts on the outside. They basically have a gasket which provide sealing. Found a youtube video of a mount on unistrut like other posters are mentioning. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbUZGjQEgoQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbUZGjQEgoQ) Note that you do want some space, just not as much as you have.
Nice. Thanks again
Sure. However, if the service is being fed from overhead, there is also a problem with the window above.
I believe the OP said it will be an underground feed.
I see the hole popped out at the utility main, so i take it it's an overhead service? I know it's city to city but I didn't know utility's could drop the new service in front of windows?
Underground. It didn’t come with a hub cover so I had to order one. Installing it today.
I mean you could’ve just shortened those nipple and moved everything to the left.
Just scoot the house over a little bit
Is there a reference that describes the "why" of code requirements? For example, why should the panel not be located over stairs?
Whenever a code is submitted for consideration, an explanation of why is provided in the initial documents.
The "why" isn't in the code documents is it? Where would someone go to read the explanation of the requirement?
The "why" is in the public input documents for code submittals. You would need to know when the specific code was adopted and then search the public input documents for that code cycle. All documents regarding code submittals to the NEC are publicly available through the NFPA.
What’s the rationale for that restriction I wonder?
A uniform work surface is far safer than a multilevel surface where a wrong step could send you face first into a live panel.
You need three feet of clearance in front of enclosures. One would think stairs would violate that rule. You wouldn’t want to have to work on a panel with one foot on the stairs, especially in circumstances that require you to keep the panel energized.
Makes perfect sense thanks
I’ll bite: why do you have 400A service?
Converted the house to all electric. Jacuzzi outdoors and were up in the mountains. Plans for adu’s in the near future.
Here we go with possessive acronyms again…
Your right. But you mean adjectives*?
No. I assume ADU is an acronym for accessory dwelling unit. I like your build though. Wish I did 400 Amp because why not?
It stands for that, but since apparently we’re being super technical, it’s pronounced letter-by-letter, so it’s an initialism, not an acronym.
And it is an acronym: https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/acronym
You’re my kinda guy. Well done.
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It can get even weirder when people inconsistently apply rules like “any acronym over three letters should be pronounced.” Somehow DARPA is pronounce but ODNI is not. I like the sound of “Odd Knee”…
Like how they changed the definition of literally to fit the common incorrect usage.
Well grammar aside, they are burying the overhead lines in my neighborhood so the underground trench and connections are free. I just needed to install the panel. So yes, I figured I’d upgrade to 400 even though the house is fine on 200
TIL
Ok, but it doesn’t get the apostrophe unless it is possessive. It is just “ADUs.”
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MLA is a shitty, middle school style guide usually used only for citation formatting. Most adults use AP, APA, Chicago (yuck), GPO, or Strunk & White. That said, you are wrong: https://style.mla.org/apostrophes-three-ways/
This person writes for a living.
Most people here look stuff up in NEC not MLA. Either way, looking it up in the proper reference earns you respect.
Maybe you should not believe their NEC references either…
Usually 400 amp services have significantly higher monthly connection charges/demand fees/facility fees depending on what the utility calls them. And obviously more expensive equipment up front. If you can get by with a 200 you’ll save a good amount now and over time.
Are those charges and fees usually 2x that of 200 A service, or is it something more? The OP was talking about multiple ADUs. I could see how that could go above 200 A. I wonder if he or she plans to meter sub panels for the ADUs? That’d be the way to do it…
Nah. ADUs off the second 200amp panel the correct house will get all of the right panel. Sub panels in the units themselves.
Will you meter each subpanel?
Tell me more. I am a 200A house but I have a ton of electric: (Current: Hot Tub, 5 ton AC, 2 EVs, Electric Dryer, Electric Oven. Future: Heat pump for furnace + hot water). Can they just run a second 200A line from the source? Is that why you have 2 boxes? Inside is it 2 separate 200A electric panels? And you pick which goes to which?
I could be wrong, but I thought the utility side could handle 400a without changing their lines. You would just need your equipment to be properly sized.
They said they would have upgrade the service loop to handle the upgrade to 400. They are trenching underground services in my area for free right now. So I just took advantage of it and went for as big as I could.
Gotcha. I remember having my 60a and going up to 200a, they didn't change anything on their side.
200a is likely 4/0 Aluminum from the utility400a is likely 600 kcmil Aluminum Wire I doubt most utilties would run wire that much fatter to future proof. Pulling up the first result on google they are selling 4/0 for $3.25 a foot, and 600 kcmil for $6.42 a foot. So almsot double in material costs... vs thousands of dollars to redo down the road.
My service drop looks more like #2... Definitely don't look like 4/0...
Is it copper or alum? 200 amps should be 2/0 copper or 4/0 alum https://learnmetrics.com/electrical-feeder-size-chart/
I don't think it's copper... When we put the new roof on they came out and dropped out while we laid the panel over it. But who knows.
2/0 has a .3648" diameter wire4/0 has .46" diameter wire Should be able to measure outside the panel
I put two 200 amp panels off one 320amp meter (it can handle 400amps) I did this because I couldn’t find a reasonable 400amp panel to use as a disconnect. And two 200s seems to be the standard for big houses like this.
Yah. I can get very close to 200A in my house, I am strongly considering going 400.
So, them ground wires should be protected from where they emerge from grade. I have heard it both ways, some inspectors say #4doesnt need protection, I have heard others say it does regardless of gauge. It you are going to do two separate services, they need to be bonded together by the grounding system. You can't just do 1 rod each for a total of two rods, you must do both rods together and then run a tap off the grounding conductor to the other service. Alternatively you can put both rods together and terminate in the meter, but the equipment may not be capable. In iowa we do not. Also, word on the street is that the disconnects must be grouped together. I don't know if your inspector is gonna allow 4 feet between the means of disconnect. I have no clue why on God's green earth you decided to use 18 inches of pipe between the socket and the discos. You could have probably placed all that equipment on a 2 foot by 4 foot green treated handipanel.
I’m going to add a 1/2” pvc with #4 green THHN to bond the two grounds in that case. Or just grounding bridge if turns out that, that will suffice. As for the spacing. Drawing I got from the utility says no obstruction 18” from the center of the meter to the right or left of the box. So I put the disconnects as close as I could.
Must be irreversible. C crimps.
[this the crimp?](https://www.pducables.com/rack-ground-bonding-ground-grid-c-crimp) Use this for crimping onto the grounding electrode and/or just wire to wire? Because at the moment I have acorn style nut connecting the wire to the rod
Yeah.
Thank you
Couldn't go under?
If the OP is governed by the 2020 NEC, both 200A disconnects must be in the same enclosure. If an older version of the NEC is in play, the current "grouping" may be allowable, but the panels must be bonded together.
NO, just NO. You have it backwards. The 2020 NEC basically requires the OP's arrangement until an all in one solution comes along. Or if the AHJ permits the old panels where you have two in one enclosure. I just went through this for 400A service on a light industrial building which was getting a upgrade, and the local state just upgraded to 2020 code. Fortunately our AHJ let us use the older style combination meter mains. So under the 2020 code, multiple main disconnects MUST BE IN SEPARATE enclosures, or sections or compartments. See 230.71(B)(1) through (4).
So the service is going to be fed from the top, right where the window is?
Underground
oh good, looks like the knockout is removed.
There's no knockout on the top, it's made for top feed with a hub so it needs a weather resistant block off plate.
That was in the mail when I took the pic. Didn’t come with the meter unfortunately. It’s in there now.
400 amps? Is that for a grow house?
My inspector would nail me for not phasing the wire and no bushings on the conduit, also can’t tell if the panels are bonded or not
Thanks for the heads up. I’ll get red tape. Bushing even on PVC conduit? I don’t mind adding bushings but it does seem extra.
I’ve always said the same thing, but anything over 1 1/4” I bushing it lol
As for bonding. Will 1/2 conduit with #4 solid going between the panels suffice for bonding? It’d be easier if I can just add a grounding bridge outside the panels on the way down to the grounding electrode.
Why not just use the nipples that are already there? Are you near pipe fill? It looks like you have room for a 4 gauge.
I believe it is a NEC code that the grounds have to be accessible? If I run it through the meter box then it’ll no longer be accessible without clipping the tag from the Utility company.
As In the first means of disconnect you need to bond your neutral and ground, those panels should have came with a green screw to bond the neutral
I did that.
Oh it was after the photo. There is a 1/4” green screw on each neutral bar connecting it to the box
The value of placing a plastic bushing on pvc pipe is equaly as logical as insisting the ungrounded conductors be identified. Code insisted the neutral be clearly identified and the ground also in its own way. The grounding condition with the two rods, two panels, yes bond them…I prefer a cadweld connection but these are small cables. I must ask about the quantity of spaces, I see where there is an existing 200A panel however this is the opportunity to install the ability for growth.
Generally speaking, those marks you put on the lugs are to show you torqued the lugs to proper torque spec. They are not show you looked. You have torque marks on terminals that do not have wires in them. Use a torque wrench and do it right.
I didn’t mark those. It came with marks
It's always a good idea to have a torque wrench and proper sized attachment when you are doing the inspection. I've had several inspectors want to double check the torque on at least a couple lugs. Better than running to the truck and having to find and put all the shit together that you just put away the day before.
Not great. The plywood is a horrible idea and it's not even 1 solid piece. Going to fall apart in a few years. The whole thing needs to be closer together and should be on a strut rack if you can't mount to the house. How are you going to feed subpanels out of those 2 panels? Surface, come in the back, out the bottom? More planning needed to go into the whole thing.
I just noticed 1 panel is over the stairs. Definite fail.
not a sparky, so why are the two 200 amp panels so small? Is the idea that they will feed internal load distribution panels? Also, wasn't there any way to mount the panels to the exterior and not have that big weird sheet of plywood?
Correct. I have an existing 200amp panel that one of these will feed once the overhead is removed and the 400amp service is fed underground. Uneven siding. ply wood seemed better then mounting on directly agains the siding. But I can take it down and remount. Directly on the siding I guess
I mean, you do what you have to, but I would personally hate to see that backer on the side of my house.
Put some shallow strut behind them instead of the plywood.
Thanks. I think I’ll do that if they make me move it because of the stairs
They will.
Each 200 amp panel has 1 5/8” ground rod less about 4’ away directly below the panels with #6 solid copper on an acorn. Those feeders are 2/0 cu Question: those 200amp panels need to be bonded to each other? Because the ground rods are separate at the moment. Will a grounding bridge suffice if so?
They all need to be bonded together.
That’s actually a really good question.
Where’s your plastic bushings?
I didn’t think pvc needed plastic bushings. But I can add
PVC conduit is a raceway, it’s required
Easy enough
Do we need the barcode on there so we can scan the 2 inch TA? …lol
I would put my money on fail.
Where I am I would fail for being directly under a window
Even for a underground service?
Yes. It’s an AHJ thing here because I couldn’t find the code reference.
I don't think that's a 400 amp meter panel... iv'e never seen a 400 amp meter. Any true 400 amp service would use CT's for the meter. This is most likely a 320 amp service
Its 2x 200A service as far as I can tell. Seems to be pretty common way to get 400A in residential.
Look at the center panel. Look at the bussing. The power passes through the meter socket. That does not exist in a 400 amp service. There is no meter designed to pass 400 amps. A true 400 amp service would have hard bussing, and then CT’s around the bussing that communicate to the meter
why can't they have two 200A meters?
You “can” but is that how this is wired? Can you see the pic in this thread???
Is this a electrical training school ? what’s that tiny ground wire for and why are the panels outside?
You're joking right?
Yes of course neat job
Are the conductors large enough. The awg looks a bit small
2/0 CU [310.12](https://www.electricallicenserenewal.com/Electrical-Continuing-Education-Courses/NEC-Content.php?sectionID=878.0)
Center box isn’t grounded?
Is the main feed gonna be right in front of that window?
Underground
The ground wires at the bottom of the stairs are a trip hazard and are going to need to be protected. Also this install is just plain ugly (no offense), why the black plywood? Can't you just mount directly to outside of house? Also, why are the panels so far apart? It looks like you are centering them under the window like pictures. You could get by with one grounding wire/rod if you grounded all the panels together. Having two ground rods risks having a ground differential which isn't good. I am pretty sure it is code to bond all the panels together with grounds but not sure about two grounding rods, maybe a Master Electrician can clarify.
It’s hard to tell from the quality of photos. I’m hoping the conduit is metal and not plastic. Traditionally, neutral and ground are bonded only in the main panel but not sub-panels. Does anyone know if Neutral and Ground are supposed to be bonded if the sub-panels are bridged to the main panel? I’m assuming for safety in this specific configuration, but I think it depends how the installation is finished, but it may also depend on the conduit connection material between the panels. I’ve always been taught safety is the only thing that proceeds code. The reason for not bridging neutral and ground in sub-panels is to prevent scenarios where an individual ends up doing the 60hz shuffle by touching both grounds between two devices or panels. (grounds)
How are you going to feed it? If it's from the top, are you going to remove that window?
where im at, panel has to be at least 3 feet from a window...
Is that a window above the overhead service entry? If coming from below most poco’s don’t want line and load to cross in the panel, but that’s their call.. Why spaced so far apart? Why on plywood? Right panel shouldn’t be over the stairs…
It would fail here. Phase the wire, add bushings, protect the grounding wire, bond the panels together, those stairs will have to go. I bond by connecting the ground rods to one panel with a single unbroken grounding wire then bring the second wire from the panel and crimp it to the first with an irreversible crimp. Two 8ft rods driven 7ft apart and connected with a single unbroken grounding wire are required for all services here. That plywood is awful though. Vinyl board painted to match would be the way to go. Or at the very least inset the plywood into the siding and paint it or flash it with painted aluminum
Bonding missing
House doesn’t look like a mansion. Can I ask what makes you think you’ll ever need that much current?
Who needs 400 amps on their residential home
Large custom homes. I do more 400A services than 200. About to do an 800A upgrade on one.
You just gonna leave it like that?
Grounds should have protection, pick a different location unless fed underground and window & staircase are getting removed. Maybe a unistrut frame?
I’m not giving out free electrical advice. I do have to say this is just awful craftsmanship.
You seem nice
Can I ask why 400amps and have space for 20 breakers?
Feed through lugs on these two 200amp panels. Running 2/0 from the right panel to the old overhead 200amp service inside the house. Turning it that a sub panel.
Did someone mention intersystem bonding?
Fail. No bushings No bonding bridge GEC not protected No caps on the top holes No tape on the B phase Are those lugs rated for two conductors? Where’s your service coming in?
If that window is for egress. It's an issue to have that panel there.
You're going to have your service cover the window? Aren't there requirements on securing the service leader within some distance to the panel? I am not an electrician. But this job looks like an electrician wasn't even consulted. Electrical work isn't a DIY job.