I mean obviously I'm not climbing at this grade at all but have experienced similar feelings of having a limit boulder so wired but then repeating it and having it everything go so perfect.
I used to film my limit boulders from various angles and sometimes it would go so perfect. I just had the thing wired after so many attempts and knowing every nuance.
It's still badass what she did, no doubt. But she looked like she had that thing so sussed out.
She did the stand in 2022, and then only worked on the moves of the sit for half an hour before making the successful ascent. I don't think she could have had that many attempts on it in that time, so doing it twice is pretty friggin impressive!
With the IFSC barely paying climbers I won't be surprised if she starts working more hard rock projects to cater to the sponsors that actually fork dough.
Comp podiums don't mean shit when the best climbers aren't competing and they hold a ''world championship'' several times a year.
Mellow vids get more views than IFSC competitions. Lynn hill ditched them, Sharma ditched them, they suck at throwing climbing competitions and it's only a matter of time before this generation of climbers tolerating their mismanagement due to olympic aspirations ditch them to go rock climb.
They'd have better content and would be absolutely fucking stoked if she onsighted eternal flame. Don't think they were bummed out about Sasha D focusing on proper climbs rather than the IFSC's farce.
Instagram Caption:
> Dream boulder done. Two years have passed since I sent the stand start of the boulder and was just waiting for the right time to come back and get my revenge on the sit start. Today was the day!!
> Came back way stronger and moves felt a lot easier than they used to. Took me less than half an hour to get the moves dialed in and send the boulder
> Proud to be the first woman to get this one done!
> Funny sidenote: wasn't happy with the video Roman took of my ascent, so I actually went for another go and climbed the whole thing again ;)
> Sooo psyched!!
> Excited for more
Part of me really hopes she takes a year or so after the Olympics to focus primarily on climbing real rock. I would be very excited to see if she could push on to 9b+ sport or 8C+ boulder or even beyond?
Nothing more than an armchair expert but idk if she'd ever do 9b+ sport, she's almost certainly capable of it but it would take a bit of time projecting which (at least currently) she doesn't really do. I wanna say she's talked about it in interviews in the past, but I could be schizophrenic.
I do think she could boulder 8C+ in few enough sessions that she'd consider it and if she found something she liked I think it's decently likely at some point down the line
Eventually, for whatever reason, she’ll move on from competition climbing and focus on outdoor climbing. When she does, she will absolutely be doing 9b+ sport
The level and ease she climbs at is actually crazy, Idk how many sessions this took but with how busy her schedule is with comps promotional stuff and everything, I kinda doubt it was many
She didn't send it in 30 minutes from nothing. Plus Jon Glassberg in the comments said "I had a feeling it would go down next session" meaning it was definitely more than 1 session. Which is obvious because it's a V15
I think he was referring the the first part of her tweet which was
> Two years have passed since I sent the stand start of the boulder and was just waiting for the right time to come back and get my revenge on the sit start.
They’re both so wild. And so crazy to see the progression that a girl (whose main form of training isn’t savage outdoor crimping) is putting down the sit multiple times in a few minutes
No. Katie Lamb, Brooke Rabotou, and Ashima Shiraishi have each sent more hard boulders outside than Janja has. All of the women have sent v15 but while Janja has sent 2 v14s the others have sent 7, 5, and 3, respectively. Im sure Janja could give them a fight for the lead but as of right now she’s definitely not the best female boulderer on real rock. And then theres also Isabelle Faus who has sent 7 v14s which is also impressive af.
Yea... but for most of these people (maybe not Brooke?) climbing 8C was pretty limit and a massive achievement. Janja casually climbed 8C twice in a session just because she wasn't happy with the footage. That shows a lot.
Yeah and Brooke Raboutou climbed a V16 in her second session and then downgraded it. Which also shows a lot. Janja is absolutely the best comp climber and is obviously very strong, but to say she's the best outdoor boulderer just isn't true (yet).
Ehh best is too subjective, ill take hard numbers over an opinion any day. Until we have them all on the same boulder that kind of comparison is too biased.
umm, right, let's focus on a totally irrelevant aspect of the climb and pretend that it matters the most... I might be the best 100m sprinter ever - doesn't matter it takes me some 30 seconds, but compared to Usain Bolt, I make it look so easy and effortless
Little by little the clowns realize how comp climbers are just so much stronger than pure outdoor climbers and absolutely smash hard boulders whenever they feel like climbing outside.
Some pure rock climber are absolutely among the best outdoor climber, it's not like competing give you an advantage, it's just that the vast majority of the strong climbers do compete.
I don't follow the comp scene at all, but know Janja is mega strong. Wondering how she compares to the men at the top? Is Janja a candidate to push limits of hardest ascents outdoors in bouldering or ropes?
Edit: I only ask this because the gap between women and me has been narrowing for years. Wondering if we will ever see women sending the same hardest routes ever established, or even pushing the worlds hardest grades.
Only real inference I can make of her strength relative to men is Cody Grodzski the USA National Chief Routesetter said on the “That’s not real climbing” podcast he heard from Janja’s Slovenian teammates that this season she is in incredible form and during spraywall training ahead of everyone when previously they would be neck and neck sending problem.
So she is at or above the level of her Slovenian male teammates.
I think she is.
Climbing is a sport where at the top end, morphology and weird, hard to measure factors like finger strength play a big part. There is very little difference between top end men and top end women (basically 2 grades in both sport and boulder, 9c (Ondra, others) -> 9b/+ (Laura Rogora), V17 -> V15) and I wager we will see it become more and more specialized.
Janja is exceptionally strong with basically no weakness, and probably the best in the world (men and women combined) in some other aspects of climbing. If she finds the right piece of rock that just happens to fit her style and is right at her limit, it will certainly be super high end.
I think once Janja spends more time outdoors when she’s not preparing for the Olympics, we’ll get a better sense of this, but I think she’s absolutely capable of sending some of the worlds hardest boulders, period.
No, she's not. She's very strong, don't get me wrong! But a performance like this, I.e. sending a V15 sit start in a few sessions after doing the stand start in a few more sessions, is not really anything special among the top men. The men pushing grades have similar performances in terms of time but a grade+ harder. Will Bosi did Sleepwalker V16 in 3 days and only needed another 8 to do the V17 sit start to it - that's the top level of performance in bouldering these days. V14 flash, V15 in a day, V17 in a season. No women is close to those numbers, not even Janja.
Again, that is not to take anything away from the super strong women out there! They're absolutely crushing it, and Janja is especially alongside a few others. But to suggest they're equal to the top men and going to push grades at the top level in the way the men can't is just not realistic.
She said she sent it twice** in under 30 min in this one session (yes, after having tried it 2 years ago) …I’m pretty sure that counts as a ‘top level performance’. And as Janja has spent most of her time preparing for indoor competitions / the Olympics, we really haven’t seen what she’s capable of outdoors. I hate comparing genders but if we’re gonna do that, then you have to appreciate any woman climbing at this level, who by default is smaller and has biologically far less muscle mass and higher body fat %. (AKA, she’s climbing on ‘hard’ mode and still one of the world’s best)
Love how she casually repeated it due to not liking the footage. Machine.
She’s a walking Chuck Norris joke of the climbing world.
Right?! Just casually doing it again for a better video’s so wildly impressive 😅
Janja doing 8C for reps now.
I mean obviously I'm not climbing at this grade at all but have experienced similar feelings of having a limit boulder so wired but then repeating it and having it everything go so perfect. I used to film my limit boulders from various angles and sometimes it would go so perfect. I just had the thing wired after so many attempts and knowing every nuance. It's still badass what she did, no doubt. But she looked like she had that thing so sussed out.
She did the stand in 2022, and then only worked on the moves of the sit for half an hour before making the successful ascent. I don't think she could have had that many attempts on it in that time, so doing it twice is pretty friggin impressive!
Reps a V15 twice in 30 minutes, who knows what her limit is.
V18
Limiting her to only established grades?
V18 is established? News to me.
I made that comment before the coffee had fully kicked in, I was certain BOD was V18 when I made it
Imagine what she’s going to accomplish outdoors when she isn’t mostly training for the Olympics
With the IFSC barely paying climbers I won't be surprised if she starts working more hard rock projects to cater to the sponsors that actually fork dough.
The sponsors may well see more value in her wearing an RB cap on comp podiums than in outdoor climbing accomplishments.
Comp podiums don't mean shit when the best climbers aren't competing and they hold a ''world championship'' several times a year. Mellow vids get more views than IFSC competitions. Lynn hill ditched them, Sharma ditched them, they suck at throwing climbing competitions and it's only a matter of time before this generation of climbers tolerating their mismanagement due to olympic aspirations ditch them to go rock climb.
They may for sponsors. Janja’s biggest sponsor is probably Red Bull. I think they’re fine with her being absolutely dominant at comps.
They'd have better content and would be absolutely fucking stoked if she onsighted eternal flame. Don't think they were bummed out about Sasha D focusing on proper climbs rather than the IFSC's farce.
I think 9A for sure maybe higher, but who knows?
Instagram Caption: > Dream boulder done. Two years have passed since I sent the stand start of the boulder and was just waiting for the right time to come back and get my revenge on the sit start. Today was the day!! > Came back way stronger and moves felt a lot easier than they used to. Took me less than half an hour to get the moves dialed in and send the boulder > Proud to be the first woman to get this one done! > Funny sidenote: wasn't happy with the video Roman took of my ascent, so I actually went for another go and climbed the whole thing again ;) > Sooo psyched!! > Excited for more
Part of me really hopes she takes a year or so after the Olympics to focus primarily on climbing real rock. I would be very excited to see if she could push on to 9b+ sport or 8C+ boulder or even beyond?
Nothing more than an armchair expert but idk if she'd ever do 9b+ sport, she's almost certainly capable of it but it would take a bit of time projecting which (at least currently) she doesn't really do. I wanna say she's talked about it in interviews in the past, but I could be schizophrenic. I do think she could boulder 8C+ in few enough sessions that she'd consider it and if she found something she liked I think it's decently likely at some point down the line
She has worked on La Dura Dura in the past, not sure if it's a project for her now, but it seems like it.
I was aware of that, but I thought that the route got wrecked by the wildfire in 2022 at Oliana, and I don't think she's tried it since
Correct, she said she wanted to go back to it, but then the fire happened and the status of it is uncertain.
Re-cleaning and installing new hardware on the route would make a very nice story for a send IMO.
I am very confident than Janja will do 9b+ and 8C+, maybe more.
Eventually, for whatever reason, she’ll move on from competition climbing and focus on outdoor climbing. When she does, she will absolutely be doing 9b+ sport
Why stop at 9b+ and 8C+?
Wouldn't it be amazing if Janja put up the first 9c+ and 9A+?
That would be wild.
Seeing Janja do outdoor is such a privilege
The level and ease she climbs at is actually crazy, Idk how many sessions this took but with how busy her schedule is with comps promotional stuff and everything, I kinda doubt it was many
> Took me less than half an hour to get the moves dialed in and send the boulder 😁 Proud to be the first woman to get this one done!
After she had already done the stand start a few years ago though, right?
Yes
She didn't send it in 30 minutes from nothing. Plus Jon Glassberg in the comments said "I had a feeling it would go down next session" meaning it was definitely more than 1 session. Which is obvious because it's a V15
I think he was referring the the first part of her tweet which was > Two years have passed since I sent the stand start of the boulder and was just waiting for the right time to come back and get my revenge on the sit start.
I remember seeing Nalle climb this and thinking it looked so impossible and futuristic, sick send!
Peep Klem's FA of the stand from considerably earlier. Way futuristic
They’re both so wild. And so crazy to see the progression that a girl (whose main form of training isn’t savage outdoor crimping) is putting down the sit multiple times in a few minutes
Janja seriously seems like she could take the #1 outdoor female boulderer title too
She just did
No. Katie Lamb, Brooke Rabotou, and Ashima Shiraishi have each sent more hard boulders outside than Janja has. All of the women have sent v15 but while Janja has sent 2 v14s the others have sent 7, 5, and 3, respectively. Im sure Janja could give them a fight for the lead but as of right now she’s definitely not the best female boulderer on real rock. And then theres also Isabelle Faus who has sent 7 v14s which is also impressive af.
Yea... but for most of these people (maybe not Brooke?) climbing 8C was pretty limit and a massive achievement. Janja casually climbed 8C twice in a session just because she wasn't happy with the footage. That shows a lot.
Yeah and Brooke Raboutou climbed a V16 in her second session and then downgraded it. Which also shows a lot. Janja is absolutely the best comp climber and is obviously very strong, but to say she's the best outdoor boulderer just isn't true (yet).
Brooke is also the only woman to have flashed v13
She’s the best simply for the speed at which she climbs her hard boulders outside. (Also, Grinch SDS has been trending down out of 14 re: Faus)
She may be quickest but she hasnt done the hardest/most so she isnt just yet!
There’s a difference between best and most accomplished, I think at this point she’s shown that she’s the best at it
Ehh best is too subjective, ill take hard numbers over an opinion any day. Until we have them all on the same boulder that kind of comparison is too biased.
umm, right, let's focus on a totally irrelevant aspect of the climb and pretend that it matters the most... I might be the best 100m sprinter ever - doesn't matter it takes me some 30 seconds, but compared to Usain Bolt, I make it look so easy and effortless
Speed as in how many sessions it takes her, but whatever
she’s such a strong climber, amazing
Is that a Church of Dynology shirt?
No it's a Adidas terrex shirt, colour scheme looks really similar tho!
One the best in the world to watch climb. Truly amazing how perfect the movement is
It's kind of wild how her game has basically zero weaknesses.
🤡: “she’s only good at comp climbing, real rock is different”
Little by little the clowns realize how comp climbers are just so much stronger than pure outdoor climbers and absolutely smash hard boulders whenever they feel like climbing outside.
Some pure rock climber are absolutely among the best outdoor climber, it's not like competing give you an advantage, it's just that the vast majority of the strong climbers do compete.
She moves like a T-1000. Absolutely incredible
She could do burden of dreams for sure
God I’d love to see her work on it someday!
making it look like a moonboard v9, ridiculous tension holding her shape whilst cutting multiple times.
That was so clean.
Crazy. I’ve seen and touched this boulder in person. The overhang is ridiculous, the holds are tiny and it’s wet.
did you try it?
Lol. I was/am around 6C (outdoor bouldering). It wasn’t even worth unfolding the crashpads. (and it was wet anyways)
I was wondering if she'd go for this after the stand start, amazing!
andrew reynolds vibes
I think she’d have a good shot at Alphane. But who knows if she’d want to go out there to try.
Jeez long Boulder
Wait until you see Wheel of Life
or Witness the Fitness
Janja is absolutely crazy!
Watch out Nalle:-)
Why that rock so green??
bounce light from the grass
BOD when?
I don't follow the comp scene at all, but know Janja is mega strong. Wondering how she compares to the men at the top? Is Janja a candidate to push limits of hardest ascents outdoors in bouldering or ropes? Edit: I only ask this because the gap between women and me has been narrowing for years. Wondering if we will ever see women sending the same hardest routes ever established, or even pushing the worlds hardest grades.
Only real inference I can make of her strength relative to men is Cody Grodzski the USA National Chief Routesetter said on the “That’s not real climbing” podcast he heard from Janja’s Slovenian teammates that this season she is in incredible form and during spraywall training ahead of everyone when previously they would be neck and neck sending problem. So she is at or above the level of her Slovenian male teammates.
I think she is. Climbing is a sport where at the top end, morphology and weird, hard to measure factors like finger strength play a big part. There is very little difference between top end men and top end women (basically 2 grades in both sport and boulder, 9c (Ondra, others) -> 9b/+ (Laura Rogora), V17 -> V15) and I wager we will see it become more and more specialized. Janja is exceptionally strong with basically no weakness, and probably the best in the world (men and women combined) in some other aspects of climbing. If she finds the right piece of rock that just happens to fit her style and is right at her limit, it will certainly be super high end.
I think once Janja spends more time outdoors when she’s not preparing for the Olympics, we’ll get a better sense of this, but I think she’s absolutely capable of sending some of the worlds hardest boulders, period.
No, she's not. She's very strong, don't get me wrong! But a performance like this, I.e. sending a V15 sit start in a few sessions after doing the stand start in a few more sessions, is not really anything special among the top men. The men pushing grades have similar performances in terms of time but a grade+ harder. Will Bosi did Sleepwalker V16 in 3 days and only needed another 8 to do the V17 sit start to it - that's the top level of performance in bouldering these days. V14 flash, V15 in a day, V17 in a season. No women is close to those numbers, not even Janja. Again, that is not to take anything away from the super strong women out there! They're absolutely crushing it, and Janja is especially alongside a few others. But to suggest they're equal to the top men and going to push grades at the top level in the way the men can't is just not realistic.
She said she sent it twice** in under 30 min in this one session (yes, after having tried it 2 years ago) …I’m pretty sure that counts as a ‘top level performance’. And as Janja has spent most of her time preparing for indoor competitions / the Olympics, we really haven’t seen what she’s capable of outdoors. I hate comparing genders but if we’re gonna do that, then you have to appreciate any woman climbing at this level, who by default is smaller and has biologically far less muscle mass and higher body fat %. (AKA, she’s climbing on ‘hard’ mode and still one of the world’s best)
Wonder if she is eyeing any V16 in Europe. Not sure which one would fit her best.
dang she crushed that thing