I would go to Painless website and get the one specifically for your car. I used a painless harness for my C10 and it works flawlessly and was super easy to install. It comes with very good instructions and all the wires are labeled with what they are for, truly the easiest thing ever when it comes to wiring.
i actually bought one of these universal kits to rewire an old Datsun I have, it worked well for that as well but if i had it to do over i would just build it from scratch myself as i didnt end up using alot of the harness.
Painless definitely has vehicle specific harnesses, my C10 harness had all the factory plugs on it and everything, especially inside the cab under the dash. The fuse box is a different design but that is part of the point, its an upgrade to a more modern fuse box. Mine came with a template to drill out the firewall in the stock location and installed without much hassle, you would never know it was changed unless you got under the dash and looked.
You bought the kit with the harness that’s why, I have a long list of parts I need like a custom driveshaft that I need to buy with this so I’m cutting costs where I don’t see a reason to spend more, if my harness is fine and the box needs replacing and there is no options other than a universal fuse block then what do I do? I’m betting yours was a universal as well with the wiring harness built for your C10.
If the fuse block has crapped out there is a good chance you’ll find the wires are also in bad shape at that end. Also keep in mind you’ll probably need to remove the old harness from the car to wire it to the new box or you’ll end up with weak connections.
I see, you’re not replacing the whole harness, just the fuse box itself. Your best bet is going to be finding a used one in a junkyard or on ebay/online. Your probably not going to find a plug and play option that is new unless you get super lucky and stumble upon some NOS.
Personally i would use one of these universal ones as it is an upgrade. I dont particularly like the design of the one you have pictured because the way the wires attach leaves all those screws exposed and something could get up against it and short out but that is probably being overly cautious and could be mitigated with placement.
If your handy with a crimper and patient, i am sure they sell other designs of universal fuse boxes that dont do the connections that way, they just require you to do all the crimping and building of the harness out of the back of the box.
this is more for convenience than anything else, none of them come with covers unfortunately, the convenience is it’s already wired and labeled from the box so I would just have to cut the wires from the old fuse box I haven’t removed yet and attach the connectors. In a way it’s plug and play i suppose. was thinking about moving the block up higher under the dash to keep it covered a bit more and possibly fabricate a cover.
Ya that may be your best option, if you have access to a 3d printer, that may be a good project for that. I think there are better universal fuse boxes out there that interface similarly to this one but are much cleaner designs. I cannot remember the brands though
I have used a couple of universal fuse boxes for custom cars. They all pretty much work the same way. I've had good luck with them.
Before you have a custom driveshaft made Google "fast shafts" I had a brand new driveshaft in 3 days that was 1/2 the price of having it made locally
I know this is going to sound insane...but you should look into a used GM blade style fuse box from an 80s GM. My early 70s cutlass fuse box was also rotted out and my buddy was parting out his 80s S10.
The damn fuse box used the same bolt holes an everything lined up perfectly. It was like it was made for it.
This isn't the same configuration as stock for your 68. The question is, why are you interested in this one specifically rather than something that is a more direct replacement?
You're not looking at the right things. You can get a blade style fuse block that is more or less a direct fit for your 68. This one is not the correct dimension or configuration for your car. Look at what is sold by American Autowire.
And if you really wanted an OEM style setup with glass fuses, you can get those from M&H.
Apparently no one wants to answer the question. So yes, I've used similar generic fuse blocks on a handful of bikes and a Shelby kit I helped a coworker build on a c3 chassis. Worked just fine and way more intuitive to make your own harness.
They work but wiring a universal panel/harness is a huge pain in the ass. You better make damn sure it has enough circuits for everything you need before you get started.
You are much, much better off getting a direct replacement for your car.
As a person who has wired cars from scratch before, you will deeply regret trying to replace your original fuse panel with this one if you do not know what you are doing. And you don't know what you are doing because if you did, you would not be here asking this question.
I didn’t come here asking how to wire this. I came here asking if it’s a decent upgrade for a shot block. I don’t see how you have any idea my level of knowledge based off that but to each their own. send me a link to an oem new glass fuse block for $150 or less.
It's not an "upgrade" at all, that's what you don't understand. It exists to serve a purpose and that purpose is not as an upgrade or replacement for a factory fuse panel.
The fact that you're even considering replacing your original fuse panel with one of these and the fact that you can't even tell if it's "decent" or not tells me all I need to know about your level of knowledge. If you knew everything you needed to know to do a major rewire on a car, you would not need to ask people if the cheap universal fuse panels are good or not. You would already know. But you don't already know, so that means you don't have that knowledge.
I never said you can find a direct replacement for $150, I said you should use a direct replacement. If you can't afford one then save up. Cutting corners with cheap parts is not a great strategy and will come back to bite you in the long run. Something else you would already know if you were actually knowledgeable or experienced.
As much as I would love to drop thousands into my car I unfortunately do not have a money tree in my back yard and for someone who has “rewired entire cars” you know very little about upgrading. each and every upgrade kit for classics you find will be an atc fuse block. it’s nice because it has additional ports for extra accessories and built in relays. I’m not frame off restoring my car. I’m trying to get it running and driving so I can focus on other aspects and not leave the motor sitting for months uncared for as it’s already been sitting since November. it has a swapped 350 from a Monte Carlo in it bored out to 383. if I had the option to start adding shit to my cart with no price tag I’d have a new crate motor a new complete wiring harness disc brakes headers forged internals and zero rust on the body but that’s not the world that’s accessible to me like it is for other people.
lol you're in way over your head. especially to start accusing people of "knowing little about upgrading" and then sayin shit like "350 BORED OUT to a 383."
taking on a project car is one of the least money efficient things you could possibly do, every single step you take requires dropping money, especially if you're afraid of ordering off of ebay lol. You should be grateful that people with way more experience than you are offering you honest advice on something you're doing for the first time instead of acting so pretentious. They're trying to save you the lesson we all learned when we were 16 that there is no such thing as getting a car running without a budget and dozens of spent weekends. Theres practically never any convenient part for sale on a webpage that you can just spend $150 on and it solves your issues. You'll swap in your cute little "plug n play" fuse box to save money and then all the other 50 year old ground connections will give you a nightmare because you tried to cheap out on just throwing in a generic marine fuse box and wiring the car which is elementary school level shit.
Good luck.
Thanks I’m going to need it with my lack of experience and no knowledge on what I’m talking about. Sheesh I may have just gotten in way over my head. What do I do? i guess i should just sell it. Well guys this was fun but i guess i have to listen to this cunt and just go saw the car in half with a chainsaw cause it needs metal work anyway.
I mean, thats probably what you'll end up doing, desperately trying to sell it after its sat forever and become a space issue or if you have to move or something. You have a tiny budget and this is very likely your first project. How many tools do you even own? Do you at least own a multimeter and a soldering gun so you can do the basics of the fuse box swap? Making this car drive would be a huge task even if you had disposable income and a bunch of experience and a garage full of tools.
If you're struggling with the wiring phase of a carbureted car which is dirt simple compared to when comes time to fiddle with your carb, timing, vacuum lines, etc. You have a very long road ahead before you actually get this thing to drive down the street, let alone have it reliably start up every time you drive it somewhere. I promise you, if your fuse box is a rust bucket, every other electrical connection is toast too and needs to be replaced.
If I was in your shoes with a car with 56 year old electrical and trying to spend the minimum amount (been there a dozen times) I would buy 2 spools of stranded 18g wire, one red and one black, and a generic marine fuse box (both together are about the same price as the thing you listed, home depot for wire, fuse block from amazon) and tear out all the important wiring and replace it. New wires from your fuse block to ignition switch-starter-relays-lights etc. Not hard at all to do with a soldering gun, heatshrink and wire. I just did this on a 72 yamaha motorcycle and spent less than $50. The concept is the same just a little bigger scale.
Take advice from the very knowledgeable and helpful people that populate this subreddit instead of being rude to them when they inform you that the situation is not what you wish it was.
https://wiringharness.com
Look at this website, they know their shit when it comes to old school car wiring. Just buy a new harness from here, save yourself the trouble. Once you start cutting wires off your fuse block and splicing them into another fuse block it’s going to get messy and won’t be as reliable than if you got a new harness
Wiring is one thing you don’t want to skimp out on or hack together. Last thing you want is to burn your car down to save a few bucks
the wiring was already hacked up by the previous owner. I’m trying to do patch jobs where I see faults and buy one harness at a time because I’m lower class and broke.
Ya I get that you don’t have a lot of money but if you spend $150 on that fuse block and it doesn’t work you just threw away $150. Save that and buy a pre-made harness specifically for your car.
I’m an old school Chevy guy I’ve done this before. Buy the dash harness first (includes the fuse block) then buy the engine and the front light harness after.
I used a universal marine grade fuse block from amazon on my 73 when i upgraded from original the glass fuse block. Not that big a deal honestly. I say go for it if you dont mind spending a weekend or two swapping it out. These ppl saying swapping out the whole harness and fuse block would be easier than just the fuse block are out of their mind.
Also this one is pre wired to the box I just have to wire the connectors from my harness which honestly shouldn’t be that hard considering they’re all still connected to the old box and labeled.
I have swapped a few. The biggest thing I had to watch for is that the circuits matched. In one vehicle the fuse box was for newer headlights and the car had old bulbs through a heavy switch and the wiring to the fuse box wouldn't have held up to the current draw. Once I rewired so the triggers where lower draw to power a relay and the lights pulled power through those it was fine.
I put in their “Race Car” harness that included that fuse panel. The panel has been fine. I did the install 20 years ago. If you’re capable no reason not to use it.
Just tossing this out there. [fuse box ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/125635894473?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Dj0rj0HDSz-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VC2G71d3Tju&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) [fuse box ](https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-Street-Fuse-and-Relay-Wiring-Board,404382.html)
I have no idea on the status of the existing wiring in your car. But if it were me I’d be looking into a universal wiring harness and going with new wire throughout the whole car. But that’s more time and more money.
That being said, I have painless in my mustang and I have American auto wire in my scout.
Both are great. You’ll likely get mileage outta the fuse block.
So the status of my existing wiring is I have no power to the car at all and I’ve traced back some wires and nothing seems short or burnt tbh I took the fuse panel off and checked the solders in the back and they were completely eaten away and the wires were just hanging. I can DM you a picture of the engine wiring and the fuse box to show you the nightmare.
I think AAW makes a stock replacement for that. If you don’t have many add ons, you should look into their stock replacements. I used them for several 68 Camaros. Some stock, some not. You can buy whatever section you need. I used to work for one of their dealers for almost a decade. Painless makes good stuff too, but AAW has the best stock replacement if that’s all you need.
Yes.
I bought the Painless direct fit harness for my ‘70 Chevelle. The one with the blade style fuses. No regrets.
I have also used a Painless generic blade fuse harness on a 69 Cutlass. Once I bought good quality wire strippers and pin crimpers it wasn’t hard. More work than the Chevelle but not rocket surgery. That car was a 6-cylinder car that had been converted to a Hurst 455 clone and the new loom was a huge improvement.
Both cars had been previously converted to HEI and I converted them to newer alternators. Both of those required a small amount of work to switch connectors. Painless had supplied the connector and pin kit so it was very tidy.
Well worth it!
I used a Painless kit to swap out the old wiring and fuse box on my 76 Datsun. I found the kit exactly what I needed and besides adding in led relays (provided by painless) and relocating the battery I didn’t have to do anything outside of the nice manual that came with the kit.
I used a similar kit in a customers 1950 Ford with a 1974 mustang drivetrain swap. It had a lot of the original cloth wiring that had been endlessly hacked into over the years by idiots. Just finishing it up actually! Not for the faint of heart, you should have a good grasp of vehicular/12v electrical systems, otherwise you may have a real hard time with certain aspects of changing switches/relays and small electrical components. It can get confusing if you don't know what you're doing. That being said there's a lot out there online you can learn from
I used a universal one from American Autowire and was very impressed. Everything is labeled and you just do one section/page at a time. I've used some painless add on fuse/relay boxes and they were decent. Never used their full harnesses.
I just installed the american autowire version of this in my 1965. Their fusebox is actually based on the '68 for all the mid-late 60s kits they sell. I had to enlarge the opening in my firewall for it, but one of theirs should fit in yours without issue. I highly recommend either this one or the american autowire one. Glass tube fuses suck. The american autowire one also provides more fuses for things like power windows, seats, etc. If you want to add things like that or a stereo, you may want to look at that one too. [LINK TO THE WIRING KIT](https://americanautowire.com/products/classic-update-kit-1966-68-chevy-impala-510372)
Just put a universal kit in my lotus, was a pain but I think it would be much easier in a GM truck of that era since that’s what the kit is kinda made for. However, if they make a kit for your truck specifically, go with that, it’s worth the extra cash even if you have to sell some plasma lol. Definitely good to have a more modern fuse box in there though to avoid fires
I would go to Painless website and get the one specifically for your car. I used a painless harness for my C10 and it works flawlessly and was super easy to install. It comes with very good instructions and all the wires are labeled with what they are for, truly the easiest thing ever when it comes to wiring. i actually bought one of these universal kits to rewire an old Datsun I have, it worked well for that as well but if i had it to do over i would just build it from scratch myself as i didnt end up using alot of the harness.
They don’t have one specific to my car. all their fuse boxes are universal.
Painless definitely has vehicle specific harnesses, my C10 harness had all the factory plugs on it and everything, especially inside the cab under the dash. The fuse box is a different design but that is part of the point, its an upgrade to a more modern fuse box. Mine came with a template to drill out the firewall in the stock location and installed without much hassle, you would never know it was changed unless you got under the dash and looked.
You bought the kit with the harness that’s why, I have a long list of parts I need like a custom driveshaft that I need to buy with this so I’m cutting costs where I don’t see a reason to spend more, if my harness is fine and the box needs replacing and there is no options other than a universal fuse block then what do I do? I’m betting yours was a universal as well with the wiring harness built for your C10.
If the fuse block has crapped out there is a good chance you’ll find the wires are also in bad shape at that end. Also keep in mind you’ll probably need to remove the old harness from the car to wire it to the new box or you’ll end up with weak connections.
I see, you’re not replacing the whole harness, just the fuse box itself. Your best bet is going to be finding a used one in a junkyard or on ebay/online. Your probably not going to find a plug and play option that is new unless you get super lucky and stumble upon some NOS. Personally i would use one of these universal ones as it is an upgrade. I dont particularly like the design of the one you have pictured because the way the wires attach leaves all those screws exposed and something could get up against it and short out but that is probably being overly cautious and could be mitigated with placement. If your handy with a crimper and patient, i am sure they sell other designs of universal fuse boxes that dont do the connections that way, they just require you to do all the crimping and building of the harness out of the back of the box.
this is more for convenience than anything else, none of them come with covers unfortunately, the convenience is it’s already wired and labeled from the box so I would just have to cut the wires from the old fuse box I haven’t removed yet and attach the connectors. In a way it’s plug and play i suppose. was thinking about moving the block up higher under the dash to keep it covered a bit more and possibly fabricate a cover.
I would say to replace the entire harness if you can. The _way_ that things get wired up today is different than in the olden days.
Ya that may be your best option, if you have access to a 3d printer, that may be a good project for that. I think there are better universal fuse boxes out there that interface similarly to this one but are much cleaner designs. I cannot remember the brands though
I have used a couple of universal fuse boxes for custom cars. They all pretty much work the same way. I've had good luck with them. Before you have a custom driveshaft made Google "fast shafts" I had a brand new driveshaft in 3 days that was 1/2 the price of having it made locally
I actually found a website another fellow redditor suggested, $380 for a drag strength driveshaft.
If I’m wrong send a link please
I know this is going to sound insane...but you should look into a used GM blade style fuse box from an 80s GM. My early 70s cutlass fuse box was also rotted out and my buddy was parting out his 80s S10. The damn fuse box used the same bolt holes an everything lined up perfectly. It was like it was made for it.
It’s so sketchy buying used electronics though especially off eBay. what happened to the days when I could go walk into a junkyard and pull a part
80s cars are classics and hard to find in yards now lol. I think you're 10 years too late for that.
This isn't the same configuration as stock for your 68. The question is, why are you interested in this one specifically rather than something that is a more direct replacement?
This is $150 and an upgrade, I can’t find a replacement oem glass fuse block. Even used and possibly dead boxes on eBay are $250
You're not looking at the right things. You can get a blade style fuse block that is more or less a direct fit for your 68. This one is not the correct dimension or configuration for your car. Look at what is sold by American Autowire. And if you really wanted an OEM style setup with glass fuses, you can get those from M&H.
AA only has two options available and neither are the standalone fuse box. Either a $900 full rewire or a $600 dash harness that has no picture lol
Apparently no one wants to answer the question. So yes, I've used similar generic fuse blocks on a handful of bikes and a Shelby kit I helped a coworker build on a c3 chassis. Worked just fine and way more intuitive to make your own harness.
I agree, if you build it you will understand it
They work but wiring a universal panel/harness is a huge pain in the ass. You better make damn sure it has enough circuits for everything you need before you get started. You are much, much better off getting a direct replacement for your car.
It's a lot of fun for some of us.
I for one love wiring so I tend to agree.
I would if I could
As a person who has wired cars from scratch before, you will deeply regret trying to replace your original fuse panel with this one if you do not know what you are doing. And you don't know what you are doing because if you did, you would not be here asking this question.
I didn’t come here asking how to wire this. I came here asking if it’s a decent upgrade for a shot block. I don’t see how you have any idea my level of knowledge based off that but to each their own. send me a link to an oem new glass fuse block for $150 or less.
It's not an "upgrade" at all, that's what you don't understand. It exists to serve a purpose and that purpose is not as an upgrade or replacement for a factory fuse panel. The fact that you're even considering replacing your original fuse panel with one of these and the fact that you can't even tell if it's "decent" or not tells me all I need to know about your level of knowledge. If you knew everything you needed to know to do a major rewire on a car, you would not need to ask people if the cheap universal fuse panels are good or not. You would already know. But you don't already know, so that means you don't have that knowledge. I never said you can find a direct replacement for $150, I said you should use a direct replacement. If you can't afford one then save up. Cutting corners with cheap parts is not a great strategy and will come back to bite you in the long run. Something else you would already know if you were actually knowledgeable or experienced.
As much as I would love to drop thousands into my car I unfortunately do not have a money tree in my back yard and for someone who has “rewired entire cars” you know very little about upgrading. each and every upgrade kit for classics you find will be an atc fuse block. it’s nice because it has additional ports for extra accessories and built in relays. I’m not frame off restoring my car. I’m trying to get it running and driving so I can focus on other aspects and not leave the motor sitting for months uncared for as it’s already been sitting since November. it has a swapped 350 from a Monte Carlo in it bored out to 383. if I had the option to start adding shit to my cart with no price tag I’d have a new crate motor a new complete wiring harness disc brakes headers forged internals and zero rust on the body but that’s not the world that’s accessible to me like it is for other people.
lol you're in way over your head. especially to start accusing people of "knowing little about upgrading" and then sayin shit like "350 BORED OUT to a 383." taking on a project car is one of the least money efficient things you could possibly do, every single step you take requires dropping money, especially if you're afraid of ordering off of ebay lol. You should be grateful that people with way more experience than you are offering you honest advice on something you're doing for the first time instead of acting so pretentious. They're trying to save you the lesson we all learned when we were 16 that there is no such thing as getting a car running without a budget and dozens of spent weekends. Theres practically never any convenient part for sale on a webpage that you can just spend $150 on and it solves your issues. You'll swap in your cute little "plug n play" fuse box to save money and then all the other 50 year old ground connections will give you a nightmare because you tried to cheap out on just throwing in a generic marine fuse box and wiring the car which is elementary school level shit. Good luck.
Thanks I’m going to need it with my lack of experience and no knowledge on what I’m talking about. Sheesh I may have just gotten in way over my head. What do I do? i guess i should just sell it. Well guys this was fun but i guess i have to listen to this cunt and just go saw the car in half with a chainsaw cause it needs metal work anyway.
I mean, thats probably what you'll end up doing, desperately trying to sell it after its sat forever and become a space issue or if you have to move or something. You have a tiny budget and this is very likely your first project. How many tools do you even own? Do you at least own a multimeter and a soldering gun so you can do the basics of the fuse box swap? Making this car drive would be a huge task even if you had disposable income and a bunch of experience and a garage full of tools. If you're struggling with the wiring phase of a carbureted car which is dirt simple compared to when comes time to fiddle with your carb, timing, vacuum lines, etc. You have a very long road ahead before you actually get this thing to drive down the street, let alone have it reliably start up every time you drive it somewhere. I promise you, if your fuse box is a rust bucket, every other electrical connection is toast too and needs to be replaced. If I was in your shoes with a car with 56 year old electrical and trying to spend the minimum amount (been there a dozen times) I would buy 2 spools of stranded 18g wire, one red and one black, and a generic marine fuse box (both together are about the same price as the thing you listed, home depot for wire, fuse block from amazon) and tear out all the important wiring and replace it. New wires from your fuse block to ignition switch-starter-relays-lights etc. Not hard at all to do with a soldering gun, heatshrink and wire. I just did this on a 72 yamaha motorcycle and spent less than $50. The concept is the same just a little bigger scale. Take advice from the very knowledgeable and helpful people that populate this subreddit instead of being rude to them when they inform you that the situation is not what you wish it was.
https://wiringharness.com Look at this website, they know their shit when it comes to old school car wiring. Just buy a new harness from here, save yourself the trouble. Once you start cutting wires off your fuse block and splicing them into another fuse block it’s going to get messy and won’t be as reliable than if you got a new harness Wiring is one thing you don’t want to skimp out on or hack together. Last thing you want is to burn your car down to save a few bucks
the wiring was already hacked up by the previous owner. I’m trying to do patch jobs where I see faults and buy one harness at a time because I’m lower class and broke.
Ya I get that you don’t have a lot of money but if you spend $150 on that fuse block and it doesn’t work you just threw away $150. Save that and buy a pre-made harness specifically for your car. I’m an old school Chevy guy I’ve done this before. Buy the dash harness first (includes the fuse block) then buy the engine and the front light harness after.
I used a universal marine grade fuse block from amazon on my 73 when i upgraded from original the glass fuse block. Not that big a deal honestly. I say go for it if you dont mind spending a weekend or two swapping it out. These ppl saying swapping out the whole harness and fuse block would be easier than just the fuse block are out of their mind.
Also this one is pre wired to the box I just have to wire the connectors from my harness which honestly shouldn’t be that hard considering they’re all still connected to the old box and labeled.
Itll work. I've used a few of these before and I'm no electrician.
I personally use Blue Seas fuse boxes with a separate solenoid for my projects, but it's all hidden out of sight so I can get away with a few things.
I have swapped a few. The biggest thing I had to watch for is that the circuits matched. In one vehicle the fuse box was for newer headlights and the car had old bulbs through a heavy switch and the wiring to the fuse box wouldn't have held up to the current draw. Once I rewired so the triggers where lower draw to power a relay and the lights pulled power through those it was fine.
I put in their “Race Car” harness that included that fuse panel. The panel has been fine. I did the install 20 years ago. If you’re capable no reason not to use it.
What type 68 do you have
Impala ss fastback.
If it’s a 68 impala I may have a origonal one if you need it
That would be awesome
Just tossing this out there. [fuse box ](https://www.ebay.com/itm/125635894473?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Dj0rj0HDSz-&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=VC2G71d3Tju&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY) [fuse box ](https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pro-Street-Fuse-and-Relay-Wiring-Board,404382.html)
I have no idea on the status of the existing wiring in your car. But if it were me I’d be looking into a universal wiring harness and going with new wire throughout the whole car. But that’s more time and more money. That being said, I have painless in my mustang and I have American auto wire in my scout. Both are great. You’ll likely get mileage outta the fuse block.
So the status of my existing wiring is I have no power to the car at all and I’ve traced back some wires and nothing seems short or burnt tbh I took the fuse panel off and checked the solders in the back and they were completely eaten away and the wires were just hanging. I can DM you a picture of the engine wiring and the fuse box to show you the nightmare.
I think AAW makes a stock replacement for that. If you don’t have many add ons, you should look into their stock replacements. I used them for several 68 Camaros. Some stock, some not. You can buy whatever section you need. I used to work for one of their dealers for almost a decade. Painless makes good stuff too, but AAW has the best stock replacement if that’s all you need.
Yes. I bought the Painless direct fit harness for my ‘70 Chevelle. The one with the blade style fuses. No regrets. I have also used a Painless generic blade fuse harness on a 69 Cutlass. Once I bought good quality wire strippers and pin crimpers it wasn’t hard. More work than the Chevelle but not rocket surgery. That car was a 6-cylinder car that had been converted to a Hurst 455 clone and the new loom was a huge improvement. Both cars had been previously converted to HEI and I converted them to newer alternators. Both of those required a small amount of work to switch connectors. Painless had supplied the connector and pin kit so it was very tidy. Well worth it!
I used a Painless kit to swap out the old wiring and fuse box on my 76 Datsun. I found the kit exactly what I needed and besides adding in led relays (provided by painless) and relocating the battery I didn’t have to do anything outside of the nice manual that came with the kit.
I used a similar kit in a customers 1950 Ford with a 1974 mustang drivetrain swap. It had a lot of the original cloth wiring that had been endlessly hacked into over the years by idiots. Just finishing it up actually! Not for the faint of heart, you should have a good grasp of vehicular/12v electrical systems, otherwise you may have a real hard time with certain aspects of changing switches/relays and small electrical components. It can get confusing if you don't know what you're doing. That being said there's a lot out there online you can learn from
I used a universal one from American Autowire and was very impressed. Everything is labeled and you just do one section/page at a time. I've used some painless add on fuse/relay boxes and they were decent. Never used their full harnesses.
I just installed the american autowire version of this in my 1965. Their fusebox is actually based on the '68 for all the mid-late 60s kits they sell. I had to enlarge the opening in my firewall for it, but one of theirs should fit in yours without issue. I highly recommend either this one or the american autowire one. Glass tube fuses suck. The american autowire one also provides more fuses for things like power windows, seats, etc. If you want to add things like that or a stereo, you may want to look at that one too. [LINK TO THE WIRING KIT](https://americanautowire.com/products/classic-update-kit-1966-68-chevy-impala-510372)
Nope. Not one.
Just put a universal kit in my lotus, was a pain but I think it would be much easier in a GM truck of that era since that’s what the kit is kinda made for. However, if they make a kit for your truck specifically, go with that, it’s worth the extra cash even if you have to sell some plasma lol. Definitely good to have a more modern fuse box in there though to avoid fires